Kalina will not start: possible causes and their elimination

A lot of time has passed since AvtoVAZ put on sale a car called Lada Kalina. Advertising and the hope of domestic car enthusiasts for a bright future did their job - every third Russian chose Kalina as a new car. However, the joy of owning a domestic car ends sooner or later.

After just a few months of operation, the Kalina car showed its rather capricious character. And it just so happened that the owners of the Lada Kalina began to disappear more and more often in the garage, once again doing some kind of repair, rather than driving the car. AvtoVAZ engineers are well aware of the shortcomings and childhood diseases, and are doing their best to get rid of them in the next generation in order to increase reliability. However, the result of the improvements is insignificant. The car still cannot please with its endurance and resistance to wear. It’s especially unpleasant when the Kalina doesn’t start at the right moment. And the car owner is forced to start troubleshooting. Let's try to understand the reasons for the car's reluctance to start.

Immobilizer

If the car refuses to start, then this is one of the possible reasons. You can notice problems in the operation of this system yourself. If the corresponding icon blinks on the dashboard and a characteristic beeping sound is heard, then you should read the operating instructions. If the Lada Kalina does not start, the immobilizer is a common problem. The problem is not easy to fix. In the instructions for the car, the manufacturer indicates the decoding of sounds and blinking lights - the car owner needs to count the time between flashes, the number of buzzer signals, and then read what the manufacturer writes about this.

In winter, it often happens that the car starts normally after about the sixth time. In most cases, this problem can be solved by retraining the key - after this procedure, problems with starting should not appear.

Main reasons

The engine does not start the first time

Kalina has a fairly common reason that it does not start the first time. This is due to design, wear and tear and electrical issues. But, it is worth breaking the problems into categories and considering them in more detail. So, let's look at the main categories into which this malfunction is divided:

Problem with the fuel system.
The reason is the ignition.
Failure of timing elements.
The problem is in the operation of electrical circuits and the ECU.

When everything is sorted out into the causes, it is worth considering them in more detail and how to eliminate them on the car.

Fuel system

The first reason that a car may not start the first time is the fuel system. Insufficient fuel or too much gasoline becomes a problem. In this case, the starter turns, but starting is difficult. If the starter does not turn and the immobilizer icon is flashing, then the problem is already on the immobilizer side.

Fuel pump wear

A failure of the fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter can cause the pressure in the fuel line to be insufficient and the mixture to be lean. Accordingly, the small amount of fuel in the combustion chambers is not enough to start the engine. If too much fuel mixture is supplied, the spark plugs are simply thrown and there is no spark to ignite, which causes the engine to not start.

Ignition

The second reason for poor starting is a malfunction of the ignition system. The problem may lie in the following nodes:

Ignition switch malfunction.
Breakdown in high-voltage wires.
Spark plugs are worn out or dirty.

When considering the problem, it is necessary, first of all, to pay attention to the spark plugs, clean them and adjust the gaps using a feeler gauge.

Next, you need to check the ignition wires, resistance and insulation damage. If necessary, it is worth replacing failed products.

How and why the immobilizer fails

Let's dwell on this topic in a little more detail. The thing is that the ECU controller on this model is located under the heater radiator. In second-generation models, the controller was moved.

So, if the Kalina does not start, you need to remove the side wall from the left side in the passenger seat and visually check the ECU. The block must be dry. If it is wet, then it is filled with coolant - in this case, it will not be possible to restore the ECU, only replacement will help.

First of all, when exposed to liquid, the output switch burns out. The chip can be re-soldered, but after such repairs the problems will go away for literally two months, and then they will appear again. The heater radiator will need to be replaced. If this problem exists, then experts recommend installing a new controller between the engine compartment partition and the stove.

Now about the immobilizer - in Kalina cars the manufacturer installs APS-6 immobilizers. In very rare cases, these devices fail on their own. Often, the problem is hidden in the wiring or control panel. The key fob body is held together with one self-tapping screw - the screw can be overtightened or undertightened. A crack appears on the remote device chip between the transponder contacts. In this case, if the Kalina does not start, only a spare or training key, or replacing the remote control will help.

How to change the ignition switch on a Lada Kalina with your own hands

When replacing the ZZ on Kalina, you must take into account that the new keys do not have the required immobilizer chip. If at least one old key has been preserved, the chip from it must be removed and replaced with a new one.

As a rule, a key with a red chip (training) is saved. Using it, you can train the chip of the second new key.

Another option to train the key is to call an appropriate specialist who will clean the EEPROM of the injection ECU and flash the data of the new keys. Without all these manipulations it is impossible to start the car!

Procedure for replacing the lock:

Remove the steering column cover.
Disconnect the connector with the ignition switch power wires.
Disconnect the small immobilizer receiving antenna connector.
Remove the four bolts securing the lock and remove it.
Install a new lock with new breakout bolts.
Break off the bolt heads and perform further assembly in reverse order.

The hardest part is removing the old lock. For this you will need a good chisel. After all, the bolts that are to be unscrewed have no heads. This is done to prevent theft.

Using a chisel and hammer, you need to break off all four bolts and unscrew them.

Starter

The immobilizer has been checked and does not give any alarms, but the engine still does not want to start. Another reason for this behavior is the starter. It’s easy to notice a problem with the starter – you won’t hear the characteristic sound of the engine starting. The mechanism simply does not spin, which means the engine will not be able to start. Everything is clear here - you need to remove and check the starter.

If the Kalina does not start, the starter does not turn, then the first reason may be the battery. It may simply be discharged. If the lights in the cabin and on the dashboard are not lit, the driver will be able to immediately notice this. However, it often happens that everything is in order, but the starter still does not work. For diagnostics, turn on the high beams and get out of the car. Dim headlights are due to the battery. It is discharged, but only to a critical level, when there is not enough power to turn the starter.

If the Kalina does not start, the starter does not turn, the best way out of this situation is to charge the battery. But if the headlights are bright in high beam mode and are not going to dim, then you will have to look for the reason elsewhere.

Lada Kalina 2006 stalled while driving.

October 21, 2015, 16:54 #1

It stalled while driving, all the indicators work, the pump does not pump, the starter does not spin, all fuses are normal, what could it be?

October 21, 2015, 16:54 #2

21 October 2015, 17:15 #3

kosin, October 21, 2015, 16:54, #1

It stalled while driving, all the indicators work, the pump does not pump, the starter does not spin, all fuses are normal, what could it be?

Are you sure everything is normal? Have you looked under the center console? There are relays and fuses, which, by the way, are responsible for exactly what you described.

October 21, 2015, 5:17 pm #4

Have you checked these? and even further, right under the center console, the relays are located

1 diagnostic connector

2 Main relay circuits (winding of the cooling system electric fan relay, canister purge valve, air flow sensor, speed sensor, oxygen concentration sensor, ignition coil)

3 Fuel pump

4 Electronic control unit (constant power circuits)

21 October 2015, 17:22 #5

Also check the positive wire at the starter.

October 21, 2015, 05:24 pm #6

October 21, 2015, 6:10 pm #7

Well, if only the relays, where they are located I only know how to check their ability to work?

October 21, 2015, 6:14 pm #8

The most interesting thing is that all this happened on the fly!

October 21, 2015, 6:32 pm #9

kosin, October 21, 2015, 18:14, #8

The most interesting thing is that all this happened on the fly!

If you're driving, check the negative on the engine, there have been cases where when it comes loose, it does bad things, including failure of the ECM

October 21, 2015, 07:57 pm #10

A friend had the same situation on a Kalina a week ago, the reason hasn’t been found yet, he’s waiting in line for an auto electrician, but it didn’t all start with the fact that when the ignition was turned on, the radiator airflow started working, I think it’s the same thing as mine , all the same, it even stalled on the highway, only a fan was added

October 21, 2015, 20:53 #11

The minus is screwed in normally. But which relay under the center console is responsible for what? If I understand correctly, the bottom one is for the fuel pump, and the other two? And there, just a little higher up, I found another relay, there under the steering column I found some kind of button, it’s not anywhere indicated.

November 18, 2015, 08:56 #12

Guys, the starter doesn’t work

November 18, 2015, 09:07 #13

November 18, 2015, 11:02 #14

On the 12th, I stalled twice while driving, in both cases the timing belt broke.

November 18, 2015, 11:10 #15

Russo, November 18, 2015, 11:02, #14

On the 12th, I stalled twice while driving, in both cases the timing belt broke.

quite, but in this case I think that the dog is buried precisely in the electrics. Starter failure and the inability to start the engine are interconnected.

November 18, 2015, 11:18 #16

Here is a diagram of how to turn it on. Output And this is to the main relay. B output to 50 contact/ground/. Either power is not supplied to the relay control winding from the main relay / which I suspect / or the lock itself, and in the worst case, there is no ground on contact 50 of the ECU. Well, of course, the Akum-ignition switch circuit is conditionally accepted as serviceable.

November 18, 2015, 11:53 #17

Maloy13, November 18, 2015, 11:10, #15

quite, but in this case I think that the dog is buried precisely in the electrics. Starter failure and the inability to start the engine are interconnected.

As for me, maybe I’m wrong, but this is a flood topic: the engine failure does not work; the fuel pump + fuses are all intact and everything is running, and before this, as I understand it, there were no problems all at once; well, it’s not clear why it stalled, the on-board computer should have cleared the error.

Nissan Avenir 2.0 Type Si ATESSA

November 18, 2015, 12:06 #18

I had trouble the other day. The car was abandoned by the factory owner, although the whole garland is bright, and the retractor doesn’t even click. The first time, switching the whitefish into service mode helped, but the second time it did not. It started up on its own after a few hours.

November 18, 2015, 12:30 #19

On Rosavto, the service mode is enabled from the factory

November 18, 2015, 1:07 pm #20

Zubastic, November 18, 2015, 12:06, #18

Is the immobilizer indicator definitely on?

18 November 2015, 14:30 #21

The starter turns the pump, also working, the brain is flooded, washed, dried, everything works, it starts up, but the revolutions are floating, the diagnostician climbed for three hours, then it gave a very interesting thing that the brains are working, everything is fine, but the catalyst is clogged and the second oxygen sensor is giving out incorrect information and therefore the revolutions are floating, saying I need it catalyst and flash for two euros! I took the car right away! After these words, the question of the professionalism of this diagnostician arose. Since birth, my car did not have two oxygen sensors like the Euro3. They gave me the number of a person who has been doing this for about 12 years, he called and asked and said that it was 99.9% the brains.

Source

Starter or wiring problems

You can use a multimeter to test the wiring. The red wire is connected to the starter contact, the black wire to ground. In a normal situation, the device will show from 12.5 to 14.5 V. If the reading is less or even zero, then there is something wrong with the wiring.

The first step is to clean the contacts, check the integrity of the wires and fuses.

If the check shows that there is current, then the starter will have to be replaced. If the latter makes clicks but does not rotate, then the starter motor has failed. If everything is the other way around, then the problem is with the retractor coil.

ECU

This is another popular problem when Kalina does not start. ECUs are the “brains” of the car; they themselves are quite reliable, and if you don’t touch them, then no problems will happen. However, most often the ECU is flooded.

This often happens when antifreeze leaks. This has already been discussed in the section on the immobilizer. When installing an alarm system or when pulling car wires, they forget to install the plugs - water gets into the ECU. Repairing an electronic unit is a futile task.

In the new generation, this problem was solved, and now the ECU is located in a different location. However, now another problem has appeared - if the drain hole, which is located next to the cabin filter, is clogged, then water can enter the computer through the holes.

Training procedure:

Carrying out the training procedure leads to the following consequences:

the engine control controller activates the anti-theft function if it has not been activated;
the system changes its password to a new one chosen at random;
a new system password is written into the training key;
all remote controls that were previously trained are erased from memory;
The codes of those remote control units that were trained in this training procedure are stored in memory.

The training procedure is applied in the following cases:

activating the anti-theft function in the controller (for example, in a new car or replacing a faulty controller);
erasing old and training new remote controls if lost;
changing the system password if the owner admits that his system password may have been read (for example, when selling a car from one owner to another)
remote control training when replacing a faulty immobilizer with a new one.

Only new remote control units or those that were previously trained using the training key used in this training procedure can be trained. It is impossible to learn a remote control key from another car into your car.

Please note: Due to the importance of the training key, it is not recommended to use it for everyday use and should be kept in a safe place.

Before starting the training procedure, fill the car with at least 10 liters of gasoline so as not to get confused by the squeaks.

Spark plug

If everything is in order with the electronic filling, you should look for the problem in the candles. Often, and especially in winter, spark plugs flood.

Compression in the engine in cold weather does not meet the standards, so the engine may not start immediately. Often flooding of spark plugs occurs due to a discharged battery, which is unable to produce a normal spark. If not, the reasons may also be in the wiring or the spark plugs themselves. The easiest way to dry the spark plugs is to press the gas to the floor and crank the engine with the starter two or more times. Often, after this the car will start. If this does not help, then for more thorough drying you should dismantle the spark plugs, then clean them, check the gap, and then dry them with a hairdryer or in the oven.

Idle speed control

Statistics show that a breakdown of the idle air regulator, which is responsible for the appropriate engine speed, is the most common cause of a stalled engine. Of course, such a breakdown can only occur with an injection engine.

What to do: make sure that the idle speed control is working properly by turning the crankshaft with the starter while pressing the gas pedal. If the engine starts, but the number of revolutions increases, then the IAC is broken. The problem is solved by replacing the spare part.

Note: on VAZ cars the IAC changes in a couple of minutes.

Gasoline pump

The vagaries of the fuel pump are often observed, especially in winter. The starter works, but the Kalina car refuses to start, the fuel pump cannot be heard, and an exclamation mark may flash on the dashboard.

First of all, check the pressure in the fuel system. To do this, open the hood and look for the cap on the ramp with the injectors. You can see the nipple there - if you press it, fuel should spray out. If it splashes, then the problem is not with the fuel pump.

Another reason is the relay. There is a cover in the transmission tunnel on the passenger side. It contains power coils. To eliminate the malfunction, just knock or warm them up.

If the fuel pump does not work, then you need to get to it and check the voltage. If the multimeter shows about 12 V, then the fuel pump is working. If not, then it is worth checking the fuses, as well as the relays.

Lada Kalina 2006 stalled while driving.

October 21, 2015, 16:54 #1

It stalled while driving, all the indicators work, the pump does not pump, the starter does not spin, all fuses are normal, what could it be?

October 21, 2015, 16:54 #2

21 October 2015, 17:15 #3

kosin, October 21, 2015, 16:54, #1

It stalled while driving, all the indicators work, the pump does not pump, the starter does not spin, all fuses are normal, what could it be?

Are you sure everything is normal? Have you looked under the center console? There are relays and fuses, which, by the way, are responsible for exactly what you described.

October 21, 2015, 5:17 pm #4

Have you checked these? and even further, right under the center console, the relays are located

1 diagnostic connector

2 Main relay circuits (winding of the cooling system electric fan relay, canister purge valve, air flow sensor, speed sensor, oxygen concentration sensor, ignition coil)

3 Fuel pump

4 Electronic control unit (constant power circuits)

21 October 2015, 17:22 #5

Also check the positive wire at the starter.

October 21, 2015, 05:24 pm #6

October 21, 2015, 6:10 pm #7

Well, if only the relays, where they are located I only know how to check their ability to work?

October 21, 2015, 6:14 pm #8

The most interesting thing is that all this happened on the fly!

October 21, 2015, 6:32 pm #9

kosin, October 21, 2015, 18:14, #8

The most interesting thing is that all this happened on the fly!

If you're driving, check the negative on the engine, there have been cases where when it comes loose, it does bad things, including failure of the ECM

October 21, 2015, 07:57 pm #10

October 21, 2015, 20:53 #11

November 18, 2015, 08:56 #12

Guys, the starter doesn’t work

November 18, 2015, 09:07 #13

November 18, 2015, 11:02 #14

On the 12th, I stalled twice while driving, in both cases the timing belt broke.

November 18, 2015, 11:10 #15

Russo, November 18, 2015, 11:02, #14

On the 12th, I stalled twice while driving, in both cases the timing belt broke.

quite, but in this case I think that the dog is buried precisely in the electrics. Starter failure and the inability to start the engine are interconnected.

November 18, 2015, 11:18 #16

November 18, 2015, 11:53 #17

Maloy13, November 18, 2015, 11:10, #15

quite, but in this case I think that the dog is buried precisely in the electrics. Starter failure and the inability to start the engine are interconnected.

Nissan Avenir 2.0 Type Si ATESSA

November 18, 2015, 12:06 #18

November 18, 2015, 12:30 #19

On Rosavto, the service mode is enabled from the factory

November 18, 2015, 1:07 pm #20

Zubastic, November 18, 2015, 12:06, #18

Is the immobilizer indicator definitely on?

18 November 2015, 14:30 #21

Won't start when warmed up

Owners also often complain that Kalina is not. The most common reasons for this behavior are problems with the coolant temperature sensor.

It may send the wrong signal, resulting in fuel being delivered incorrectly. Fuel injectors also become depressurized. As a result, the fuel mixture becomes over-rich. The injectors need to be replaced or cleaned.

These are all the reasons why the Lada Kalina refuses to start.

Recommendations

Comments 46

So it's not about the spark plugs or the throttle or the valves. The jamb is constructive, pumped over from previous models of vases. Since the fuel rail is located in close proximity to the exhaust tract, after trips it heats up due to the heat emanating from the cat or spider, because of this, the gasoline heats up and boils inside the ramp, therefore the pressure in the ramp drops and the car takes a long time to start hot. I personally start it this way: I turn the key to the first position several times 2-3 times, wait until the fuel pump relay clicks, and then I start it 4 times, and what do you think... It starts perfectly...

The throttle position sensor needs to be replaced.

The problem has been known for a long time and there is one more thing, replacing the coolant temperature sensor, which is located in the thermostat, changed the problem, no such problem yet. If you have a question about how a sensor can affect startup, then google it. True, the problem always arose on a warm engine, but on a cold one it always started the first time.

I got this hemorrhoid after installing Denso candles ///

I’ve had it since new and it’s not going anywhere))

What you described does not help, because... I carry out these procedures regularly, but the problem is still present.

This happens to me, but I have nothing to clean since everything is already clean and everything has been changed, but the problem remains.

one of the last ones worth

8bug ones seem to take a long time to turn, at work and at my wife’s it’s the same thing, my 16kl starts with half a kick even with a decrepit battery

End of 2022, mileage 30k, gasoline 95, fall/winter/cold spring — auto start. It never started. The rest of the time with the key, with the clutch depressed. It never started.

At 70K mileage, such garbage appeared that sometimes it could not start from autostart. And at a mileage of 20-30 it happened that the second time it started and the starter turned for a long time (regardless of the temperature)

In my opinion, these are all VAZ genes passed on from generation to generation. This happened on a tag with a mileage of 200,000+ and the same thing is observed on a grant with mileage “recently left the showroom”))

Yes, this fact exists. The solutions described are not a panacea. A design feature that does not depend on service life. But bad spark plugs and gasoline will manifest themselves in any car in one way or another, and replacing the air filter will not at all affect the starting of the car. Over almost 6 years of operation, this defect has not increased or decreased. Didn't adjust the valves 70 t.km. because the clearances were normal (dynamic driving reduces the need for valve adjustment). But literally not long ago, the adjustment of the valves (one was out of order) coincided with the next independent maintenance (replacement of oil, spark plugs, filters), as a result, the starting situation did not change. Your candles don't look very good. Mine are always dry, even after 40 thousand kilometers on one set. And the damper is not the reason, because... Since then, the problem has appeared (and even during dynamic driving this is not required, but it will manifest itself in floating speeds, deterioration in dynamics, etc.). I don’t even dare call it a problem or a defect, rather a feature of this car because... appears extremely rarely.