How to check the line for a signal. Do-it-yourself diagnostics using the K-line, part 1

By a method of exclusion, I realized that there is no K-line going to my MK, everything that is needed except information from the ECU is shown by the computer. An inspection of the rear of the MK and the diagnostic connector under the ashtray confirmed its absence.

1. There is no wire, where can I get it? what to make it from?

2. What is the best and easiest way to install it in the 2114i from the standard place at the top? (in detail because I haven’t climbed into the panel and have no experience yet)

Today I tried it with a piece of wire - it worked! At the same time I reset the MK.

as a result: MK saw the ECU, etc. The only thing it doesn’t show is consumption/hour, apparently the car doesn’t consume gasoline :)))))

Let's start with the fact that installing an on-board computer in a standard place on a VAZ 2114 and other Samara models is not so difficult. In principle, there is no hassle with wires and nuts in installing an on-board computer (unless, of course, no one tried or changed anything in the car before you). A knowledgeable person will install your on-board computer in about 2 minutes, so you shouldn’t be afraid, put your hands on your feet and go ahead with a song =).

Instructions on how to check the K-line

Most often, the solution to the problem really lies in breaking the K-line wire. That is, the wire has simply moved slightly out of the block (the APS block of the immobilizer, or the BC block) and there is no longer any contact.

If you have checked all the contacts, but the on-board computer still does not see the K-line wire, then you can proceed as follows:

When is diagnosis necessary?

Computer diagnostics involves reading error codes, erasing them and correcting them. For this, various diagnostic adapters and systems are used. These include multifunctional stands, OBD connectors, portable readers and other devices. Thanks to diagnostic equipment and software, the slightest malfunctions in the vehicle’s control system and its main components are detected.

Using diagnostic systems, you can change parameters to increase the power characteristics of the machine. If a new car model comes out, you can reprogram the functions for the new equipment.

Computer diagnostics are usually carried out in the following cases:

• indicators on the dashboard light up, signaling any malfunctions;
• the driver has suspicions of a malfunction of any components or systems;
• check the condition of a used car before purchasing;
• Experts recommend diagnostics at least once a year.

Stories from our readers

“Fucking basin. "

Hi all! My name is Mikhail, now I’ll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange my two-wheeler for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that I began to be wildly irritated by the breakdowns of the two-wheeler, it seemed like nothing serious was broken, but damn it, there were so many little things that really started to irritate me. This is where the idea arose that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on the melting Camry of the tenth years.

Yes, I had matured morally, but financially I just couldn’t handle it. I’ll say right away that I am against loans and taking a car, especially not a new one, on credit is unreasonable. My salary is 24k a month, so collecting 600-700 thousand is almost impossible for me. I started looking for different ways to make money on the Internet. You can’t imagine how many scams there are, what I haven’t tried: sports betting, network marketing, and even the volcano casino, where I successfully lost about 10 thousand ((The only direction in which it seemed to me that I could make money was currency trading on the stock exchange, they call it Forex. But when I started delving into it, I realized that it was very difficult for me. I continued to dig further and came across binary options. The essence is the same as in Forex, but it’s much easier to understand. I started reading forums, studying trading strategies. I tried it on a demo account, then opened a real account. To be honest, I didn’t manage to start earning money right away, until I understood all the mechanics of options, I lost about 3,000 rubles, but as it turned out, it was a precious experience. Now I earn 5-7 thousand rubles a day. I managed to get the car buy after half a year, but in my opinion this is a good result, and it’s not about the car, my life has changed, I naturally quit my job, I have more free time for myself and my family. You’ll laugh, but I work directly on the phone)) If If you want to change your life like me, then here’s what I advise you to do right now: 1. Register on the site 2. Practice on a Demo account (it’s free). 3. As soon as you get something on the Demo account, top up your REAL ACCOUNT and go to REAL MONEY! I also advise you to download the application to your phone, it’s much more convenient to work from your phone. Download here.

1) Check the voltage on the K-line. We set the multimeter to the mode for measuring constant voltage, connect the red probe to the K-line, and the black probe to ground to any point on the body. The readings on the device should be 12+-2V. You cannot use a lamp to check the voltage, because it has a load.

2) If on your VAZ the connector with the APS is disconnected, then check for the presence of a jumper in the APS block between pins 9 and 18.

3) The problem may be in the immobilizer (the K-line signal comes, but disappears after the immobilizer). Check for the presence of a K-line on pin 18 of the APS block. Using the same method, you can check whether there is a break between the APS block and the BC block.

4) Interference or broken wire. Try replacing the wire from the BC to the diagnostic connector with a new, shorter one.

You can also check the k-line in a service center using computer diagnostics, or by connecting a known working on-board computer to the car (see how to connect a BC). And if the k-line does not work and at the same time there are problems with starting the engine, then start checking the additional VAZ fuses.

Does your car have an on-board computer?

Features of checking wires included in various devices

The specificity of this situation is that the wiring in the case under consideration consists of one linear conductor with a supply voltage of 12 Volts. In this case, the metal body of the car is used as the second (common or “ground”) conductor, where, as a rule, there is nothing to break.

To prepare the on-board network for inspection, you first need to disconnect the positive terminal from the battery, after which you can safely begin work. Testing of on-board wiring is organized according to the previously described linear circuit testing scheme.

When checking the “ground” of a car, the main attention is paid to the quality of contact of the supply terminals with the body

Electric heating element

Based on the indicator readings on the multimeter, it is possible to make a continuity test on an element such as a water heating element. During the test, the control probes of the device touch the two contact plates of the heater and evaluate its internal resistance using the indicator.

In addition to the heating element itself, when checking boilers and similar devices, it is very important to ring the supply cable for unwanted contact with the device body. For this purpose, one of the multimeter probes is connected in turn to the input contacts; while the second end is constantly held on the heater body

If the digital multimeter shows some resistance during measurement, this means that the protective sheath of the supply cable is damaged. To prevent electric shock to the user, it should be replaced with a new one.

Using a multimeter, you can test the power circuit of any lighting device by testing the wiring and auxiliary elements (switches, in particular) for a short circuit or open circuit. To do this, first of all, you should ring two linear chains ending directly at the contacts of the light bulb.

When testing linear chains, be sure to check the serviceability of the switch located in one of them, as well as the reliability of connecting the conductors to its contacts.

We also note that using this method it will be possible to ring the windings of a linear transformer or electric motor and verify their integrity or the presence of a break (short circuit).

K Line connection problems

K - Line adapter ( VAG COM ) does not connect

When making a K-Line adapter yourself or purchasing it in a store, users in some cases encounter problems connecting the adapter.

This problem has two subtypes:

— Problem when connecting the adapter to a PC (with our K-Line 409 adapter, the kit includes a video instruction on how to use the device, we recommend that you read it if you have any questions)

— Problem connecting the K Line 409 (VAG COM) adapter to the car

To solve the first problem, you need to install the driver for the device located on the disk, then go to the device manager and see if your adapter is displayed correctly. If in the device manager you see your adapter in the COM ports and LPT section without any question marks, etc. then you can rest assured that the drivers are installed correctly. To be more confident, you can double-click on it to find an inscription stating that the device is working normally.

If your adapter is indicated with a question mark or is located in the other devices section, apparently you have not installed the driver and you need to reinstall it.

We select our device, select, update the driver and specify the folder with the drivers, then click next and see the installation process, otherwise select another folder and repeat the operation until we achieve success.

If you installed the driver correctly, but when connecting to the car the connection does not occur, first check the cable for functionality, to do this, install the Vasyadiagnostic program, then in the settings section select the port number on which your adapter is located and click the test button ( The car engine must be running or the ignition is on).

If you receive a message about successful detection of the adapter, the next step is to select a program for your car from the disk that comes with the adapter and diagnose it.

If you receive a message that the adapter was not found or the port is closed, then double-check the port number in Device Manager and that the device driver is installed correctly. If everything is done correctly, check the functionality of the cable on another car and another PC.

If, when connected via another PC on another car, the adapter works but refuses to work on your PC, then there may be a problem with the installed OS, antivirus, or computer components. Most often, if the cable on your PC works on another car, but refuses to work on your car, the problem is a broken K-line wire. Perhaps the wire has simply moved a little out of the block (the APS immobilizer block) and there is no normal contact. If you have checked the contacts on the car and everything is in order, but the cable still does not work, then you need to perform the following steps:

Checking the DPKV for serviceability

Also, the motorist should not forget to measure the clearance between the synchro disk and the sensor before dismantling, which cannot go beyond the size of 0.6-1.5 mm. If there are no mechanical damage such as scratches, dents, or damage to the material structure, the sensor is checked using other measuring instruments:

checking with an ohmmeter. In this case, it is necessary to measure the resistance of the sensor winding

Since the standard value of this indicator, set by the manufacturer, ranges from 550 to 750 Ohms, going beyond the specified limits indicates the malfunction of this device, which is important for the correct operation of the car - which means it is faulty. It is worth noting here that the manufacturer still allows a slight discrepancy in resistance with the nameplate values, but in any case they must correspond to the data specified in the machine’s operating instructions; checking with a voltmeter, inductance meter and transformer

This method is more complicated, but more effective - the resistance is measured with the same ohmmeter, after which the inductance is checked (should be from 200 to 4000 millihenry), with a sensor winding voltage of 500 Volts. Next, you need to measure the resistance with a megger and make sure that it does not exceed 20 MOhm.

If the sensor still does not pass these tests, it must be replaced. During this procedure, it is necessary not to forget about the distance between it and the synchronization disk regulated by the manufacturer, as well as alignment with the marks on the crankcase that were made on the previous device. Before installing a new sensor, be sure to check it, since even if all installation procedures are followed correctly, it may not work properly.

A new DPKV is checked according to the same procedure as a supposedly faulty one, and based on the test results, the device can be installed instead of the previous one or rejected. When installing, the bolts are tightened with a torque of 8 to 12 Nm. However, in any case, before carrying out all the actions to replace a rather expensive and hard-to-reach component, you should definitely make sure that it is the one that has failed, because cars produced by our automotive industry can often bring unpleasant surprises.

First way to check

In this case, you will need an ohmmeter with which you will replace the resistance on the winding. According to the manufacturer's standards, the indicator ranges from 550 to 750 Ohms.

It's okay if your numbers are slightly different from the norm. If the deviations are serious, you will definitely have to replace the sensor.

It should be noted in fairness that the crankshaft position sensor on VAZ 2110 models rarely breaks down. Among the main reasons for its failure to function normally is the accumulation of dirt, mechanical damage, as well as banal factory defects.

Features of testing on other cars

As for other cars, for example, VAZ-2109 with an injection engine, VAZ-2112 and VAZ-2114, their check is carried out identically to the VAZ-2110 car.

It is noteworthy that for VAZs, when checking the resistance of the crankshaft sensor coil, an additional check can be carried out.

But to do this, the multimeter must be switched to voltmeter mode with a measurement limit of 200 mV.

Then connect the probes to the DPKV terminals and pass them with any metal object, for example, a screwdriver, at a short distance from the core.

If the sensor is working properly, it will react to metal, the multimeter will show voltage surges on the display. The absence of these bursts will indicate a faulty element.

As for a car like the Reno Logan, the difference from the VAZ in this car comes down to slightly different readings of the resistance of the sensor coil when measured with an ohmmeter.

A working Logan DPKV has a normal resistance of 200-270 Ohms.

For Daewoo Lanos, the coil resistance should be in the range of 500-600 Ohms.

But on the ZMZ-406 engine, installed on Volga and Gazelle cars, the normal coil resistance is in the range of 850-900 Ohms.

Second method

Here you will need a voltmeter, a transformer and an inductance meter. It is advisable to measure resistance under compact temperature conditions.

Once the ohmmeter readings are obtained, arm yourself with an inductance measuring device. Normally, the device should show from 200 to 4000 units (millihenry).

A megger measures the resistance when the crankshaft position sensor winding is powered at 500 volts. Under normal conditions, the readings will be no more than 20 MΩ.

Lada 2110 Green Arrow › Logbook › Do-it-yourself diagnostics using the K-line, part 1

Aleksandr Matskovich, 29 years old I drive Lada 2110 Green Arrow Kryvyi Rih, Ukraine

Good day to everyone who is reading this entry! And so I’ll start with the fact that I don’t have an on-board computer, I have a desire to install it, but more on that later. There was an interest in identifying my car with my own hands. In one of the previous articles, I wrote that after a rainstorm I filled up the air flow sensor, the check light came on and I went for diagnostics: they charged me 100 UAH. Within 30 seconds, having discovered that the sensor does not work, it needs to be replaced. I don’t need professional diagnostics; if necessary, I’ll go to a diagnostician, and for easy diagnostics, I decided to buy a K-line scanner

VAG-Com 409.1 K – Line scanner

oh, and even though my car is from 2004, it is 1.5l and 8kl with EURO-2, and is equipped with an ODB-1 connector. I googled it: it turns out that ODB-2 was already installed but on 16kL cars with EURO-3 from earlier years. I also had to buy an adapter with

Adapter OBD-II 16pin to GM12

I ordered everything from the online store, along with the cords I received a disk with programs for diagnostics and a bunch of different information on diagnostics. I configured all the com ports on the laptop and went into the garage with the laptop to try. I plugged it in, turned on the ignition, bam, and the fuel pump immediately began to hum without stopping. Naturally, nothing happened and I abandoned the matter (and this was last year at the end of autumn). Well, it’s already warm - there is a desire to resume this business. When I rang the adapter, I didn’t really understand anything, one rings 3 at a time, some don’t ring at all, I decided to redo it all. As you know, for diagnostics via the K-line you only need 3 wires (channels): 1) potassium itself 2) +12V 3) -12V aka ground, ground

I would like to note that in the figure above the contacts on the adapter are drawn as they should be, and not on the adapter or block! So imagine applying the adapter and think about where the contacts on the adapter and block should be, here is the picture below

location of K-line contacts on the blocks

Lamaaat adapter! Well, what can you do, the design is not collapsible (breaking the connector turned out to be not an easy task))) the black body is very hard, everything inside is still filled with white plastic. 4 wires are soldered, everything is called where which goes to the adapter where is the K-line, +12 and ground, the fourth, judging by the continuity, is the L-line, which we do not need. I’ll connect these 3 wires directly to the diagnostic block and try to connect to the ECU again! Good luck for me! Read the continuation!

Price tag: 300 UAH

Those who have an on-board computer (OB) installed in their car know how useful this thing is. It happens that the message “broken K-line” appears on its screen, this means that the bookmaker is not working properly and it will no longer show some of the parameters. Do you know how to check k-line and find out the cause of the disease?

Most often, the solution to the problem really lies in breaking the K-line wire. That is, the wire has simply moved slightly out of the block (the APS block of the immobilizer, or the BC block) and there is no longer any contact. If you have checked all the contacts, but the on-board computer still does not see the K-line wire, then you can proceed as follows:

1) Check the voltage on the K-line. We set the multimeter to the mode for measuring constant voltage, connect the red probe to the K-line, and the black probe to ground to any point on the body. The readings on the device should be 12+-2V. You cannot use a lamp to check the voltage, because it has a load.

2) If on your VAZ the connector with the APS is disconnected, then check for the presence of a jumper in the APS block between pins 9 and 18.

3) The problem may be in the immobilizer (the K-line signal comes, but disappears after the immobilizer). Check for the presence of a K-line on pin 18 of the APS block. Using the same method, you can check whether there is a break between the APS block and the BC block.

4) Interference or broken wire. Try replacing the wire from the BC to the diagnostic connector with a new, shorter one.

Differences between bookmaker and control panel

Experienced drivers know that the speedometer simply converts engine revolutions into speed, and as soon as you change the wheels to a larger diameter, the speed will increase, although the indicator will work the “old-fashioned way.” In order not to get into trouble at the next traffic police post, you cannot do without a BC. But much remains not taken into account by simple fixators, and on a long journey such factors as actual and average fuel consumption, information about the mileage already covered, the amount of fuel used, etc. will be quite appropriate. These parameters of the VAZ 2114 can be calculated, but is there any time for the driver, who is primarily obliged to watch the road and not do calculations.

The “smart” car 2114 will itself monitor that the car does not overheat in the heat, and the most advanced on-board computers will even alert you to the danger of ice formation in cold weather. The computer will also report the voltage inside the engine system. With such an assistant, the trip will be much safer, over short or long distances. The main thing is not to ignore your computer's warning signals.

It may seem that an indicator appeared on board and began to count indicators. But in fact, the data on the operation of the car’s equipment was already known, it was simply not displayed in front of the driver. However, why was it necessary to turn the interior of a passenger car into a pilot’s cockpit? Connecting the “on-board” (on-board computer) to all existing sensors inside the car, processing the received data and presenting them in a form convenient for the driver - this is the main task that is assigned to the BC.

The task of the On-Board Computer is not only to collect information from the car’s sensors, but also to process it, correct it, analyze it and present it in a form convenient for the driver.

break to the line VAZ 2110

Hello everyone. Auto VAZ 21102, late 2003. I've owned the car for exactly a year, the problems appeared about 2-3 months ago. The point of creating a topic is that I don’t want to immediately go to the service station, because maybe someone has encountered a problem and it can be solved simply.

First things first: 1. Three or four months ago, the check light started to light up from time to time, BC (State) gave the error K-line break. I worked closely on the car, changed a lot of things after the purchase, but I never got around to electrics, I confess.

2. Three months ago the error K-line break appeared very strangely - sometimes 10 times a day, sometimes I drove for a week without receipts. 3.

Two months ago, another error began to appear from time to time, I don’t remember the number, but according to the decoding - Broken line DD (Knock Sensor) 4. Around the same time, terrible confusion began to happen with the battery (it was very old) - I bought a new battery (not very expensive , but in any frost it turned well, did not bring it home). Here's the problem. I park the car in the evening, sound the alarm, everything is ok. When I come in the morning, the car beeps, indicating that the alarm has gone off. Pantera alarm.

The battery drains very badly, to the point that it is impossible to start the car in the morning, the relay clicks, but the starter does not turn. Sometimes it happens that the alarm does not go off, but the battery still goes to zero. So it goes.

The last few days I have been disconnecting the battery at night so that I am not late for work in the morning. I understand that I need to go to the station and carry out diagnostics. But work, time, money.

Naturally, if the problem is not solved by my efforts with the information support of Saratov residents, I will still go to the service station, then I will write down what the problem was. But it would be very cool if I found the reason and solved the problem myself. I bought a knock sensor (Boshevsky, for 600+ rubles), I’ll change it tomorrow, the error will most likely disappear. But I have no idea what to do with the rest. Taken from. https://www.autosaratov.ru.

Things are like this. Yesterday I stopped at a gas station, stood in line, and turned off the engine. When it was time to start - FUCK! I turn the key to the first position,

When converting foreign-made cars to an ECM with an ECU January 5.1, there is a need to install a knock sensor from the same

Hello everyone, a friend of mine has this problem, can anyone tell me what it is? Auto VAZ 2112 2002, 1.5 16V mileage at the time of purchase 91000, at the moment

Things are like this. Yesterday I stopped at a gas station, stood in line, and turned off the engine. When it was time to start - FUCK! I turn the key to the first position,

Hello, I bought a VAZ 21124 3 months ago, drove it for a month and decided to change the filter and oil. Consumables in general. The first thing I did was change the air

Example of wire continuity

Continuity of wires in buzzer mode

Situation: the socket in one room does not work. The user's task will be to find the cause of the failure. To solve it you will need:

1. See if the automation in the shield worked. If the elements are turned on, de-energize the specific line or apartment completely.
2. Remove the socket from the socket box and perform a visual inspection for external defects and quality of contacts.
3. On modern models, the terminal blocks ring.
4. If the socket is not damaged, test the quality of the connection of the conductors in the junction box next to the socket.
5. The main cable in the distribution box must be broken, connected to the conductors under the socket and routed to the next consumer.
6. There are 3 twists in the distribution box - neutral, ground and phase. Use the tip of the probe to touch the exposed twist.
7. The second tip rings the socket contacts in turn. You can fix one probe on the contact, and check the twist with the second.

There are no terminal blocks for standard sockets.

Wire testing process

The measurements have several nuances:

• If the twist is without defects, it makes sense to test the live wiring. It is necessary to supply current by turning on the switchboards.
• If you are in doubt about the color marking, the phase is determined by touching the indicator screwdriver - the diode should light up.
• Working and protective grounding are checked in ACV mode greater than 220 V. The red probe is in phase, the black one is used to find zero and ground. The working grounding N is reflected in the range of 220 A, the protective grounding PE is less than 220 V.
• It is taken into account that electricians do not always route wires into the junction box. The outlet can be powered from the adjacent one or the elements of the adjacent room can be placed at common points on the walls.
• Due to the length of the probes 30-50 m, it is allowed to connect the socket contacts with a jumper and a continuity tester in the junction box.

VAZ 2110 on-board computer block and self-installation

On-board computer block

Today, the era of high technology has fully arrived, which can greatly simplify the quality of life of each person, including motorists. The VAZ 2110 on-board computer block is an effective step in modernizing a car from the national automobile industry. The owners of the first VAZ 10s could not even dream that they would ever have the opportunity to equip their unit with a high-tech on-board computer. The on-board computer socket for the VAZ 2110 is a very convenient solution that allows you to independently install the control robot on the car.

Algorithm for performing self-installation of an on-board computer

• first you need to free the central dashboard of the car from the plug;

Connection block for on-board computer VAZ 2110

• after which, on the central dashboard you will need to find a diagnostic block of 9 contact wires;
• A 9-pin block is found on all VAZ “tens”;
• then, you need to connect the car’s on-board computer to the block.

Note. You must remember to draw the so-called K line.

Algorithm for drawing line K

• It is imperative to use a pre-prepared meter wire in order to establish the appropriate connections;

Brake pads for VAZ 2110 included

• the prepared wire must be inserted into the block, and specifically into the second contact;
• the other end of the pre-prepared wire must be connected to the diagnostic block, having first pulled it under the dashboard.

Note. In order to easily install the wire, you need to temporarily turn the right side of the dashboard to one side.

• after the corresponding wire reaches the diagnostic block, it will need to be connected to the “M” socket;
• Now you can connect the on-board computer with complete confidence by installing it in the appropriate place;
• The final step is to conduct a full check of the functionality of the on-board computer.

Note. Before you begin installing any car computer, you should read the attached recommendations. Since there are many completely different models of car on-board computers, some of them require certain installation specifics.

Checking the connector contacts

We have already carried out a preliminary check and made sure that power is supplied to the ignition module. Now it’s worth dealing with the contacts separately. With the ignition on, you need to connect a test lamp to contact A and contact B.

The control can be a regular low-power 12-volt lamp with soldered wires, or you can use a car test probe with a 12-volt voltage indicator.

Checking the ignition module

To check the functionality of the module, we attach the contacts from the test lamp or probe to terminals A and B, then crank the engine with the starter.

In this case, everything is in order with contacts A and B.

Practical recommendations regarding choosing an on-board computer

VAZ 2110 on-board computer block

Objectively, it is necessary to understand that the quality and efficiency of a car’s on-board computer directly depends on its market value. From a practical point of view, the best way to choose an on-board computer is the advice of friends of motorists who have previously purchased one.

Possible causes of malfunction of the on-board computer and the main ways to eliminate them

One of the most common reasons is a lack of communication with the controller or line-K. What does the current error indicate and what needs to be done:

• the appearance of this error directly indicates a broken contact, or a poor connection of line-K with the additional block;
• The first thing you need to do is check line K according to the diagram;
• in most cases, the cause of this malfunction is a contact break between line-K and the diagnostic block.

Basic error codes for VAZ 2114 injector: decoding

Note!

The table is also relevant for version 2115.

Exhaust system – 0000

• 30 – open circuit of the oxygen sensor heater to the catalytic converter;
• 31 – also with a short circuit to the car body;
• 32 – similar with a short circuit to 12V;
• 36-38 – the same value as 30 only for the output sensor.

Air line defects – 0100

• 102/103 – Mass air flow sensor open circuit or signal violation;
• 112/113 – sensor lines t ˚ overboard, impulse violation;
• 116 – engine overheating;
• 117/118 – damage to the DTOZH circuit;
• 122/123 – TPS line, short circuit or insulation failure;
• 130 – failure of the oxygen sensor in front of the catalyst;
• 131/132 – similar element, signal level violation;
• 133 – slow response of DK1 to commands;
• 134 – break in the power cable DK1;
• 136 – DK2 is broken;
• 137/138 – short circuit or violation of wiring DK2;
• 140 – fuse DK2 burned out;
• 141 – the heater of the same device is broken or damaged;
• 171/172 – excessively lean or enriched fuel mixture.

K line VAZ 2110

Archival article. 2001 – 2003.

To connect the car to a personal computer, it is necessary to purchase or manufacture a communication interface between the COM port and the K‑LINE diagnostic connector.

The first message on the screen of diagnostic equipment or a computer that causes panic among beginners is usually something like “No connection”, “No controller response” or something similar, but no less intriguing. The motor tester, for example, begins to offer options - from unconnected power to a hardware malfunction of the adapter. It’s good if the car with the immobilizer was the first to arrive for diagnostics and you are sure that everything is in order with the adapter. The reason for the lack of communication on cars without immo is trivial and is possible only in the domestic auto industry - a break in the diagnostic line running from the diagnostic connector to the ECU. The immobilizer uses K‑Line to communicate with the ECU and is included in the diagnostic line break. If the immobilizer is not installed, then the diagnostic line hangs in the air and there is no connection with the computer. Apparently there was supposed to be a plug in this place, but... To restore communication, you just need to install a jumper between pins 9 - 1 and 18 of the immobilizer connector (or install the immobilizer) as shown in the figure. In practice, to preserve the functions of smooth dimming of light, and simply to scare away pioneers, these two wires are cut and spliced, leaving the immo in the connector.

GAS diagnostic connector.

1 + 12 V 2 + 12 V from battery 10 L‑Line 11 K‑Line 12 Weight

Diagnostic connector VAZ

Location of diagnostic pads

VOLGA - under the hood, on the wall of the engine compartment, on the passenger side VAZ 2110 - to the right of the driver, next to the steering column of the VAZ 2109 Low panel - on the shelf under the glove compartment, next to the VAZ 2109 ECU High panel - behind the center console. VAZ 2108 – 2115 “Europanel” – on the “dashboard”, closed with a hatch. Chevrolet Niva - OBD-II, near the ignition switch, partially covered by the steering cover. VAZ 11183 “Kalina” – Under the niche for small items next to the gearshift knob. VAZ 21126 “Priora” - behind the “glove compartment”.

Connector for connecting diagnostic equipment to VAZ cars (old type, analogue GM)

To connect diagnostic equipment to the block, you can use a pin contact of the appropriate diameter, but it is much more convenient to make a specialized connector.

This design was developed by NPP NTS to connect its diagnostic equipment. In a slightly modified form, these connectors can be found at car markets in Togliatti. This drawing was produced and provided by ©AIST

The connector shown in the photo can be purchased in Togliatti at the “Plamya” car market. It is made quite well and has one undoubted advantage - the presence of a fairly large amount of free space. For example, I could easily fit the k-line adapter in it. The result is a compact adapter for a laptop.

But such a block for connecting to the dianostics connectors can be ordered online on the website of the Togliatti company ZAPCHAST - SERVICE. The block is a plastic double-sided connector, on one side of which there is a connection to the standard VAZ diagnostic block, on the other - OBD II. I have already ordered them several times, delivery by parcel post (to Volgograd) within a week.

How to make connectors for connecting to diagnostic connectors yourself? Sany 77 shares its manufacturing experience – download detailed instructions

Now a little about the cord. NPP NTS, for example, equips its KR-2 adapters with a 3-wire harness 5 meters long, two supply power (“+” and “-” from the battery, crocs) and one unshielded signal wire connected in the block to the “M” contact " When making the cord yourself, you need to keep in mind that when using high-quality shielded wire, the length can be increased to 15 m, and that a system with a separate power supply was chosen due to the fact that in older types of wiring power was not supplied to the diagnostic block - at present Now you can connect everything directly to the block. The photographs show “replacement” cords for VAZ and GAZ with power supply from the adapter from the diagnostic block.

And, undoubtedly, the most convenient to use when using a laptop is a block with a built-in K‑Line adapter. The adapter shown in the photo on the left is actively used for diagnostics and work with the engineering ECU J 5 On-line tuner together with an IBM Thinkpad P‑II/ 366 laptop. A diagnostic block of this type can be found in Tolyatti, the Flame market, or you can make it yourself.

In conclusion, here is the pinout of the adapters:

1 . The most popular K‑Line from chiptuner.ru - it fully corresponds to the pinout of the KR‑2 adapter from NPP NTS: 2‑K-Line, 4, 5 + power, 8, 9 – GND.

2. Adapter K‑Line v. 1 . 7: 9 ‑pin from Auto Electrician: 1 – K‑Line, 4 – K‑Line ground, 5 – power ground, 8 – power plus.

3. Adapter K‑L-Line v. 2. 1 (and from USB K‑L-Line) from Auto Electrician: 1, 14 – K‑line; 13, 25 L‑Line; 17, 18 + 12 V; 21, 22 GND; 3 – J 1850 Bus+

OBD1 pinout - 12 PIN (GM12)

Description:

OBD1 (GM12) connector is rectangular in shape, consists of 12 contacts.

Brands and years:

All injection models, except for some models after 2002, which have an OBD-II connector.

Access and location:

Pinout:

* Connector Keying - A design element of a removable connector that ensures the correct orientation of the plug and socket.