Intake manifold VAZ 2114: characteristics, self-replacement of the gasket

The collector (resonator, “pants”) is an engine attachment; it is a closed reservoir of complex shape with a common chamber (receiver) and outlet pipes. Depending on the nature of the functions performed in a car, there are two types of manifolds - exhaust and intake.

The main task of the intake manifold is to supply air from the distribution system, mix it with fuel and transform it into an air-fuel mixture of the desired consistency, followed by a uniform supply to the combustion chamber of the cylinders. Therefore, the main task of the exhaust manifold is to collect exhaust gases from the engine cylinders into a single pipe.

When is it necessary to replace and remove the intake manifold on a VAZ-2114

Huge temperature changes are the main problem faced by the exhaust manifold and the gasket, for which it is removed. The collector itself is made of a special grade of cast iron; it can withstand high temperatures (up to 800-900 degrees) , however, these are critical values, after which the collector may warp or crack.

Exhaust manifold VAZ-2114

Its main task is to collect exhaust gases and distribute them into the exhaust pipe of the muffler.

Replacing or dismantling the VAZ-2114 exhaust manifold is necessary in the following cases:

  1. Mechanical damage to the collector.
  2. Warping and loss of tightness at the junction with the cylinder head.
  3. Burnout of the gasket between the head and the manifold.
  4. The appearance of cracks as a result of engine overheating.
  5. Replacing the collector with a device of a different configuration, adapted to a more severe operating mode.

In the event that we are not going to participate in high-speed races for the prize of the head of the regional traffic police, replacing or dismantling the collector may be necessary in a number of cases.

Causes of malfunctions

The key factor that causes 90% of exhaust manifold malfunctions on VAZ 2114 cars is high temperature and poor quality materials from which the parts are made. During operation, the steel repeatedly heats up and cools down, which leads to the appearance of cracks in the body. This is a common occurrence for VAZ cars older than 7-8 years.

Auto repair shops offer crack welding services using argon welding. However, for a number of reasons, this activity is useless for cars older than 7 years.

1) Just removing and installing the exhaust manifold will cost about 2.5 thousand rubles. Taking into account the work of the welder and other actions, the cost of repairs can be 4-5 thousand rubles. If you do the work yourself, buying a new part will cost less.

2) Welding, even argon welding, disrupts the structure of “tired” metal. A boiled part rarely lasts longer than a year, after which new holes appear. The older the car, the faster the problem returns, and the collector has to be removed again. If the car is older than 8 years and there are problems with cracks in the manifold, it is better to remove the part and replace it with a new one.

  • Wear . During operation, the car emits hot gases that destroy the surface of the gasket, as a result of which it can tear or delaminate.
  • Since there is only one gasket for the intake and exhaust manifolds, gasoline entering through the first channel can get on the gasket, which also affects the integrity and structure of the material from which it is made.
  • Part quality, not always high, even original, so when choosing, you should pay special attention to this.

    Bent valves due to irregular valve timing do not threaten the 8-valve valve

Signs of trouble

Exhaust manifold gasket One of the main signs of a leak in the system is a “sporty” growling sound when the engine speed increases. This may be a symptom of various exhaust system problems. To check, it is better to take an assistant and go to a garage with a pit or to an overpass. Most often, you can determine by eye whether the problem lies in the muffler, resonator or exhaust.

Gasket wear may become apparent during planting. Open the hood and start the car - white or grayish smoke rising from the manifold during warm-up indicates a leak for this reason. VAZ car owners usually encounter this problem once every 3-4 years. When using low-quality spare parts and before. The solution may be to manufacture a custom-made steel gasket. It can last as long as the entire collector.

Service specialists, when attracting clients, like to tell scary stories about the explosion of the exhaust manifold on VAZ 2114 cars due to cracks. In reality this is nothing more than a myth. But the real problems are no less serious, so there is no point in putting off repairs.

A cracked exhaust manifold or worn gasket can cause your engine to run rough.

1) A lambda probe is installed in the exhaust manifold, which affects the operation of the injection system. Strong air suction disrupts the oxygen mass content in the exhaust; the lambda incorrectly adjusts the quality of the mixture, causing tripping, uneven idling, loss of power, and “black” spark plugs.

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2) Another function is crankcase ventilation. Impaired air circulation causes disturbances in the operation of the gas distribution mechanism, increased wear of valves, the formation of carbon deposits on the pistons and other “joys”. If increased noise and unpleasant odors during engine operation are combined with dirty work, the car needs urgent repairs.

Places of possible suction

There are quite a few places through which air can get inside the fuel system, and during the test you will have to examine them all (we’ll talk about how to detect them a little lower).

For now, let's say that you have to check:

  1. The intake manifold gasket (its destruction or burnout in the vast majority of cases is the cause of suction).
  1. Hoses and pipes suitable for the manifold.
  2. Injector seals.
  3. Throttle gaskets.
  4. Plugs placed on the manifold.
  5. Bushings.
  6. Vacuum brake boosters.

If symptoms of air leaks appear in the VAZ 2114 injector, all these elements will have to be checked.

You should also check and, if necessary, replace the idle speed sensor. Very often they are of poor workmanship and are not sealed, leading to air entering the manifold.

How to find the leak location

There are 3 main methods by which you can find a leaky area:

  • by monitoring the rarefaction of air in the line;
  • using a smoke generator;
  • using a volatile flammable liquid.

We will omit the first method, since it requires special equipment, which is not available at all service stations. But the second method deserves a lot of attention, since it is quite simple to implement and at the same time very accurate. It will require a compressor, a blow gun and cigarettes (the latter will serve as a source of smoke).

Before checking the air intake of the VAZ 2114, you will need to assemble the entire installation, namely, connect the gun to the compressor receiver, and insert a cigarette into the nozzle of the gun. After this, a pressure of about 0.8 atmospheres is built up and the smoke is directed into the collector using a gun.

The smoke itself created by such an installation is quite thick and quickly fills the entire system. All that remains for the motorist is to carefully monitor the place where the smoke is coming out, and after detecting it, carry out repair work.

In some cases, the leak can be found without additional means - the damaged area can be easily detected by the characteristic whistle or hiss that is produced by the intake air when the engine is running. True, this only happens if there are serious cracks and breaks.

If the proposed method using a smoke generator is not suitable (for example, there is no compressor available), then the test can also be performed using volatile flammable liquids packaged in pressurized cans. As such, you can use ethyl ether (although it is almost impossible to get it in its pure form now), a means for winter starting diesel engines (the main component of which is the same ether), as well as special cleaning products based on hydrocarbons.

In order to find the location of the leak, you need to start the car engine and, while idling, begin to spray all possible components, joints, plugs and hoses that relate to the manifold and may cause air penetration.

This should be done with pauses - after spraying one place, you should wait a few seconds. If you notice that the engine speed has increased sharply after the procedure, then the detected area should be thickly sprayed again. If after this the revolutions quickly go up again, then the leak point has been successfully found.

What does a faulty collector affect?

There are many stories about the rupture (and even explosion) of a cracked manifold while the car is moving.

Of course, none of them are true, but nevertheless, a leaky manifold is a very serious problem that requires an immediate solution, and here’s why: through burnouts and cracks, air can enter the exhaust system, diluting the exhaust gases.

As a result of this, the lambda sensor will incorrectly determine their composition and incorrectly adjust the composition of the fuel-air mixture injected into the engine, which will lead to tripping, a drop in speed and carbon deposits on the spark plugs.


Bent valves due to incorrect valve timing

These same cracks will affect the crankcase ventilation, disrupting it. This will lead to timing problems and increased valve wear. And finally, exhaust gases escaping through the burnouts will enter the engine compartment and, partially, into the interior, causing unpleasant odors and discomfort during trips.

A severely burnt manifold gasket can lead to exactly the same consequences as cracks on the part itself.

Main causes of malfunction

The engine exhaust manifold is a part that operates under high loads.

During the operation of the car, it is affected by such negative factors as:

  • high temperature transmitted to it from exhaust gases;
  • exposure to gasoline vapors caused by the fact that the VAZ 2114 intake manifold and exhaust manifold have a common gasket;
  • exposure to exhaust gases;
  • exposure to vibration transmitted from the motor.

All this leads to the fact that almost all cars that are more than 7 years old (with the exception of those whose owners drive a couple of times a year) have a badly worn manifold that requires replacement.


Damaged exhaust manifold gasket

It is immediately worth noting that many car repair shops offer services for argon-arc welding of cracks in worn-out collectors. Such a service, as a rule, costs several times more than a new part, and the durability of such repairs in most cases does not exceed one year, after which new cracks appear.

It is for this reason that you should not think about possible repairs - if the collector fails, it needs to be replaced.

Another problem, which, for obvious reasons, occurs even more often, is a burnt-out manifold gasket 2114. With very active use of the car, it can fail almost every year. You can also replace it with your own hands, and the replacement procedure itself is no different from replacing the collector (its sequence will be discussed below).

Preparation stages

To replace the manifold or its gasket, in any case you will have to dismantle the VK. But before you get to the element you are looking for, you will first need to go through some preparatory steps. Namely, tighten the fasteners, and then remove the air filter and carburetor if the first stage does not help.

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Stage of work Your actions
Tightening the fastenings Often, loose manifold fastenings caused the entry of contaminants, which disrupted the performance of the exhaust system. If the tightening did not give any result, then the gasket is definitely burned out or the collector itself is damaged, which is less likely
Removing the air filter
  1. If the engine is fuel-injected, to remove the air filter you will need to unscrew the four fastening screws of the filter housing cover. The filter itself is located under the cover. If you have difficulty lifting the cover, disconnect the mass air flow sensor and remove the filter device.
  2. If you have a carburetor under the hood, then the filter and housing will be held in place by three latches. There is a screw in the center of the metal cover, which is often unscrewed by hand. Once you remove it, you can lift the lid. There is a filter underneath, which should be removed carefully. Pay attention to its condition. If the filter has been in use for quite a long time, it is recommended to replace it during reassembly.
Removing the carburetor Removing the carburetor is carried out in the following sequence:
  • Disconnect the coolant supply hose to the engine starting device from the fitting. To do this, unscrew the clamps;
  • Be sure to drain the coolant into a prepared container;
  • Disconnect the exhaust pipe that comes from the exhaust manifold and the BC bracket;
  • Disconnect the throttle cable bracket. To do this, you need to remove one end of the spring from the damper control rod, and then remove the entire spring. Now loosen the nut on the bracket, which will allow you to remove the cable from the engagement;
  • Disconnect the EPH sensor from the power plug;
  • Disconnect the vacuum tube and a pair of hoses from the carburetor heating unit;
  • Remove the engine crankcase ventilation hose;
  • Remove the four mounting nuts holding the carburetor and intake manifold;
  • Remove the carburetor carefully without yanking. It must be gradually removed from the studs.

Dismantling the unit

All dismantling work must be carried out only on a cold engine. To make it easy to unscrew all fasteners, you can pre-treat them with WD40, several hours or even a day before the repair begins.

Part selection

21083-1008081 – original catalog number of the gasket for the intake and exhaust manifold. It consists of two parts or, on newer models, one. This part is produced at the AvtoVAZ plant. The average cost is 250 rubles per piece (if there are two of them) or 450 rubles (for a whole one).

One-piece manifold gasket A gasket that consists of two parts A one-piece gasket and one that consists of two parts together

In addition to the fact that there is an original part, you can also find a number of analogues that are recommended for installation. Let's consider which gaskets can be installed under the VAZ-2114 manifolds:

  • Trialli GZ 102 0013 is a well-known Russian manufacturer that produces a wide range of analog parts for domestically produced cars. The cost of the gasket is 200 rubles per piece.
  • AJUSA 13065200 is another domestic manufacturer that has won consumers over the quality of its products. The cost of the product is 450 rubles.
  • Ukrainian also produces and supplies this gasket. But, if you look at it, the quality of the product leaves much to be desired, since the resource is designed for only 20,000 km.

Required tool for replacement

Before you begin the process itself, you need to decide on the necessary tools. To remove the exhaust manifold on a VAZ 2114 in order to replace the gasket or entire part, you will need the following tool:

  • open-end and ring wrenches for 8, 10, 13, 17;
  • wrench with heads 17, 19;
  • screwdrivers, pliers.

It is also a good idea to have tools such as a Dremel, nut saw or nut pick on hand. As a rule, the fasteners on the exhaust system parts stick tightly.

A few days before your planned repair, begin treating accessible nuts with WD-40 or another penetrating lubricant. Repeat the operation 2-3 times. This will make the task of removing the manifold a little easier .

The question often arises: is it worth using a sealant after removing and replacing the gasket? Experts believe that if you apply sealant to the gasket, it should only be high-quality silicone. A bad sealant can bring a lot of trouble to a VAZ 2114 engine: when it burns out, it turns into “pellets” that are pulled into the crankcase. And this is unnecessary contamination of the piston system.

Now that everything is prepared, you can start working directly. In order for the manifold to be removed without any problems and rusted bolts not to create trouble, everything must be lubricated with WD-40 before performing the operation. It is advisable to do this several times. Before performing the operation, you need to think again, weigh everything and calculate your strength.

Self-replacement

  • the car must be driven into the garage;
  • hang a lamp with a safety light under the hood;
  • Before repairs are carried out, antifreeze must be drained from the tank;
  • disconnect the battery terminals;
  • pull it out;
  • put on a rack;
  • disconnect the vacuum booster hose from the receiver;
  • also disconnect the hoses of the electric pneumatic valve cover and the ramp pressure regulator;
  • disconnect the chips of the throttle sensor, idle air control;
  • disconnect the throttle valve cable;
  • loosen the clamp on the air supply hose to the air flow sensor housing;
  • disconnect it;
  • loosen the clamps for attaching the hoses to the throttle pipe and ventilation of crankcase gases on the cylinder head cover;
  • remove the hoses in pairs;
  • loosen the crankcase ventilation hose clamp;
  • remove it from the throttle assembly;
  • carry out subsequent work with the cooling water inlet and outlet hoses in the same way.

Note.
Use a 13mm socket to make the work easier, unscrew the 2 nuts from the throttle assembly from the studs. The throttle assembly is attached to the receiver. Note: these nuts must be unscrewed using wrench 3.

The receiver must be removed together with the throttle assembly. In addition, you need to disconnect all inlet and outlet hoses and idle speed sensor chips from the unit. Carefully check to make sure that all fastenings are completely loosened.

Note: it is recommended to understand all the fastening points; you can use threads of different colors. To prevent incorrect connections during assembly.

Note: place the parts in a container so that during assembly you do not find missing spare parts.

How to repair a muffler

If your car's muffler requires repair or complete replacement, it is not recommended to do this work yourself, since there is a high risk that you will only worsen the condition of the exhaust system, and possibly the entire vehicle as a whole. In order to prevent such a situation, contact only specialized car services. In our car service center, qualified specialists with the necessary competence in the field of working with exhaust systems will competently diagnose the exhaust system of your car, and, if necessary, repair or install a new muffler in the shortest possible time.

Technical features of the insert for Lada Kalina 8V

The industry offers two types of tuning inserts, the design of each of them depends on the location of the pipes. Moreover, each design is designed for a specific power unit:

  1. Insert 4-1 is installed on forced engines with a speed range from 5,000 to 10,000 rpm. structurally suitable only for 16-valve engines.
  2. The 4-2-1 insert operates over a wider range and is considered a "low-end" insert. It is possible to increase engine power by about 3-5%. This is the model most often installed on the VAZ 1118.

Product delivery options

Note! Below are the shipping methods available specifically for this product. Payment options may vary depending on the shipping method. Detailed information can be found on the “Delivery and Payment” page.

Parcel by Russian Post

Available payment methods:

  • Cash on delivery (payment upon receipt)
  • Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
  • Yandex money
  • QIWI
  • ROBOKASSA

Shipping throughout Russia. Delivery time is from 5 to 12 days.

Parcel by Russian Post 1st class

Available payment methods:

  • Cash on delivery (payment upon receipt)
  • Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
  • Yandex money
  • QIWI
  • ROBOKASSA

Shipping throughout Russia. Delivery time is from 2 to 5 days. More expensive than regular delivery by Russian Post, approximately 50%. Parcel weight up to 2.5 kg

Express Parcel EMS

Available payment methods:

  • Cash on delivery (payment upon receipt)
  • Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
  • Yandex money
  • QIWI
  • ROBOKASSA

Shipping throughout Russia. Delivery time is from 3 to 7 days. More expensive than regular delivery by Russian Post, approximately 100%.

silicone sealant


Universal silicone sealant.
Most of these tubes are equipped with a convenient nozzle. By cutting off part of the spout, you can select the desired diameter of the hole so that the sealant fits well into the joints. Universal silicone sealant. Most of these tubes are equipped with a convenient nozzle. By cutting off part of the spout, you can select the desired diameter of the hole so that the sealant fits well into the joints.

Prices and options

The Premier 2110 Lux is equipped with heated front seats and excellent velor upholstery. An armrest is mounted between the seats. Based on reviews from car owners, you can understand that the rear seat is a bit short and the backrest angle is small. But the developers claim that this will change soon. The interior of the car, especially if it is trimmed with leather, looks much better than other modifications.

In conclusion, I would like to say that the Premier turned out to be much better than the usual 2110. However, it is still far from being a representative car or a limousine. This is clear, because even the manufacturers themselves position this model as a car with improved passenger seating.

Signs of damage

Problems in operation are immediately noticeable. The first sign is the engine starting and stopping, or no start at all. In a service station, diagnostics are performed by a specialist. The oxygen sensor is unscrewed from its seat and the technician tries to start the engine; if it works the first time, then the reason is the catalytic filler and the tightness of the system. Otherwise, the reason lies elsewhere.

Secondary signs: reduced dynamics of vehicle acceleration, average speeds are reduced, fuel consumption increases, the “CHECK ENGINE” error indicator lights up on the central instrument panel.

The above symptoms may not always objectively indicate the exact cause of the breakdown. Auto mechanics recommend using several at the same time. For example, increased fuel consumption may not always indicate a problem with the exhaust system. There are many related breakdowns that can give such a symptom.

In 99% of cases, a clear whistle in the area of ​​the engine compartment is guaranteed to identify the breakdown. Of course, if a turbine is not installed. But it is not provided in Lada Kalina.

When is it time to change the block head?

The cylinder head is a fairly strong unit and its replacement and repair is infrequent. On domestically produced cars, as a rule, it has to be removed due to cylinder leakage or gasket wear.

New gasket

Also removed for revision. Removing and replacing, on a car with any number of valves, the process itself is not difficult, but some skills and some experience are required. Therefore, if you are removing the cylinder head for the first time, it would be better to invite a more experienced car enthusiast as an assistant. One who has already dealt with this work, or better yet, if he has already completed modifications or repairs to this unit.

Pad

The gasket is an important part that serves as a seal. The correct operation of the exhaust manifold depends on its condition. If replacement is not made, the vehicle's performance may noticeably decrease.

The gasket is located between the exhaust manifold and the cylinder head. Its task is to under no circumstances allow gases to enter the space under the hood. The gasket is the weakest link of this assembly. She has to perform her functions in particularly difficult conditions. It is these gaskets that car enthusiasts often have to replace.

In addition, the car will start every once in a while, and from under the hood you can hear sounds that are unnatural for a car. To replace the gasket, you need to remove the air intakes, then you will need to remove the VAZ exhaust manifold. Sometimes this requires dismantling the thermal screen. Now you need to unscrew the bolts that connect the exhaust manifold to the engine.

Content

Actions in emergency situations Daily checks Operating instructions Warnings and technical rules Basic instruments, measuring Engine and its systems Transmission Chassis Steering Brake system Vehicle electrical equipment Body Interior ventilation and heating system Applications Fault codes Electrical diagrams

Sources

  • https://expertvaz.ru/2110/premer-komplektatsii-tsena.html
  • https://videoremont-mashin.ru/remont-kpp-vaz-21108/ustanovka-konditsionera-v-vaz-2110-ot-priory-svoimi-rukami/
  • https://monolith.in.ua/predohraniteli-lada-2110/

Muffler selection

The choice of a muffler for Kalina should be treated extremely carefully, since the life of the part will depend on the quality of the material.

It is worth considering this issue in more detail, identifying the articles and manufacturer.

Original

The original catalog number of the Lada Kalina muffler is 1119-1200010. It fits perfectly into standard seats and does not require modifications or alterations. The average cost is 2500 rubles.

Analogs

There are two analogues of the original Kalina muffler:

  • Fobos (42244) - it also fits on standard landing mounts. The average cost is 2000 rubles.
  • Izhora muffler (136110) - it requires improvement in terms of fastening. This is due to the fact that the ear of the elastic fastening is located a little further. Therefore, you will have to purchase a non-standard rubber washer, which will secure the muffler to the body. The cost of such a product is about 3,000 rubles.

Refinement and tuning

Some car enthusiasts tune the chassis to improve their Lada Kalina. It requires some modifications, namely rearranging the standard mounting locations on the body.

As practice shows, consumers like exhaust system tuning kits from, DTW, ASF, TRU, RosTorg, ProSport+.

There are also many facts when the owners themselves created entire systems with their own hands.

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