VAZ-2114 starts and immediately stalls reason, how to fix

The operation of the injection system has always been a weak point of VAZ cars. Low-quality gasoline, counterfeit consumables, inept repairs done by yourself or unprofessional service - the car stalls for any of these reasons.

On older cars of the Samara-1 generation, a similar problem was solved by adjusting the carburetor and ignition. Less commonly, replacing the fuel pump. The electronic injector of the VAZ 2114 is many times more reliable than a carburetor; it starts and works in any weather without causing any trouble.

But if the injection machine still stalls, there can be many reasons for this.

Diagnosing the injection system in the garage

The main factor in this process will be your luck, because very rarely when buying a car, motorists are interested in the brand of the ECU.
Two types of brains were installed in the VAZ 2114, and the dashboards for the car were produced by Schetmash and the German VDO. If you have the first option, you are out of luck; you will have to go to a car service center and contact a qualified specialist, but the owners of the second option are much more fortunate, because it is equipped with a self-diagnosis system.

VDO instrument panel

Diagnostics using the VDO panel is performed as follows:

Turn off the ignition and hold down the odometer button.
Then turn on the ignition and release the button.
First, arrows will appear on the screen, after which you need to press 2 more times, after the first, information about the firmware will appear, and after the second, the error code itself.
You can finish working with the panel, resetting the error, by holding the button until the countdown ends and 0 appears on the screen.

The error codes are as follows:

44.45 - lean/rich fuel mixture, respectively;
42 – problems with ignition;
33.34 – DMRV is faulty;
22, 23 – TPS requires replacement;
14.15 – coolant sensor problems;
1 – indicates that the ECU itself is faulty.

>Useful video

You can glean other interesting information on this issue from the video below:

The car does not start for a long time and stalls immediately after turning off the starter

The speed floats at idle VAZ 2114 injector causes e gas
Sometimes it happens that the engine either refuses to slow down when the gas pedal is released, or, on the contrary, suddenly stalls at idle. A significant proportion of these cases are due to a faulty engine throttle valve. In other words, it is clogged and jammed.

This problem can be mitigated by regular cleaning of the throttle valve. To do this, it is recommended to use a universal cleaner for purging carburetors and other car parts; it comes in metal cans and is sold at any auto supply store.

It is also worth paying attention to the inevitable clogging of the oil trap in the crankcase ventilation system, as this is just a matter of time. If the filter becomes dirty, the engine literally begins to suffocate from excess crankcase gases, as a result of which it does not hold idle speed and stalls.

The crankcase ventilation filter must be washed regularly.

Ignition module

As noted, in addition to the normal supply of fuel, a spark is required for the engine to operate. One of the elements in the car’s design that is responsible for sparking is the ignition module.

This element controls the ignition coil, and also sets the ignition timing and, if necessary, changes it. If the module malfunctions, the following symptoms are observed:

“Trippling” of the motor;
Misfires and error display in the on-board computer;
The "Check Engine" light is on on the dashboard;
Paired cylinders (1 and 4 or 2 and 3) do not work;
Floating speed and difficulty starting a cold engine.

If a VAZ 2114 (injector) starts and immediately stalls, you should immediately check the ignition module for a malfunction. To check the version with a faulty module, you should install a known working MZ and make sure that it is faulty. If the problem continues, you should start checking the sensors.

We diagnose by eye and ear

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The quality of such diagnostics greatly depends on the experience of the car enthusiast; a driver of the Soviet school simply learns more about the car by sound than some specialists by conducting computer diagnostics. Even if you are not a professional, you need to find the answer to just one question - when does the car stall?

The options may be as follows:

at idle – there can be a lot of reasons, so it’s worth using a comprehensive check, starting with operational reasons and ending with the more serious ones described above;
it stalls when cold, but works well when hot - in this case it’s worth checking the TPS;
stalls after warming up - usually the cause is problems with engine maintenance, this creates problems with enriching the mixture at high speeds;
It always stalls, but only works when the pedal is pressed - this is a breakdown of the DPKV. Characteristic symptoms are tripling, operation on two cylinders and inadequate knocking of valves audible even by ear;
the engine stops working when braking or releasing the gas pedal - most likely the problems lie in a breakdown of the TPS, which disrupts the algorithms for supplying fuel to the engine when the speed decreases sharply;
it starts and runs at idle, but stalls when the gas pedal is pressed to the floor - this is a characteristic feature of a MAF failure, the fact is that a broken sensor forces the same amount of air at high speeds as at idle.

By choosing your option, and then reviewing the list of reasons again, you can easily, if you don’t name the exact reason, then shorten the search list.

Sensors

In injection versions of VAZ cars, the engine design requires the presence of several important sensors. If the car does not start well when hot, the problem may be in one of the following sensors:

Failure of one of the elements is a problem for the driver. Let's look at the symptoms of malfunction of each of them.

The throttle valve is responsible for the flow of atmospheric air into the cylinder group, from which the fuel mixture is subsequently formed. The throttle position sensor transmits readings to the car's computer, which allows it to maintain stable engine operation.

Its malfunction manifests itself as follows:

Because the price of the new element is low - to solve the problem it is enough to install a new TPS. This part rarely fails, but if there are problems with unstable operation of the unit, it must be replaced as a preventative measure.

Another element responsible for reading the amount of incoming air is the mass air flow sensor. The cost of this sensor is quite high, so its malfunction is undesirable for any owner of the “four”.

If your VAZ 2114 starts up poorly and stalls, check the visual condition of the mesh inside the mass air flow sensor housing. Because It is located on the air filter housing - it is easy to get to. Rarely replacing the air filter and getting dirt and oil on the air flow sensor is a sure way to damage the sensor. Its malfunction manifests itself as follows: there is no stable idle speed; there is a failure during acceleration; there are problems with starting the engine (especially when “hot”). Often, cleaning the insides of the mass flow sensor housing with alcohol and a dry cloth helps to correct the situation. To accurately determine the serviceability of the mass air flow sensor, you should use a multimeter.

Important ! If it is necessary to replace the air flow sensor, take into account the part number, because on different versions of the “four”, an element with different settings was installed.

Monitoring the position of the engine crankshaft is an important point to ensure its stable operation. Responsible for this work is DPKV. Its failure is manifested as follows:

Detonation sounds when the unit is operating;
Increased fuel consumption;
The engine does not start the first time;
Errors 0335 or 0336 during diagnostics.

Women's reasons

Causes of car jerking while driving, main malfunctions

This conditional category includes reasons that sometimes arise for people who are inattentive or do not service their car in a timely manner.

These include:

Buying fuel at “left-handed” gas stations – this category also includes the purchase of cheap “grades” with various additives disguised under the names “E”, “ER” and others. It is not profitable for large chain gas stations to deceive customers, because selling normal fuel is cheaper than giving bribes to everyone, especially when it comes to the scale of the country, but the legislator does not prohibit selling some 95Er, with the alcohol content honestly indicated in the specifications. All drivers know about this, but greed takes over and such fuel kills the engine over time. The same situation has developed around “cheap underground” gas stations selling fuel siphoned off from truckers or military personnel.
Dirty fuel and air filters - a symptom of this problem is when the VAZ 2114 stalls while driving or when you press the fuel pedal. Both filters are involved in the process of forming the fuel mixture, therefore, when the fuel one breaks, the gasoline supply is unstable, and if the air filter is used, the mixture becomes over-enriched, which in both cases leads to flooding of the spark plugs.
Spark plugs - this car part can fail not only due to the reasons described above, but also due to age and improper care. Experienced car enthusiasts check spark plugs in VAZ cars at least once a month. To do this, you need to unscrew it with a spark plug wrench and evaluate the carbon deposits - the working spark plug has a light gray electrode and a light brownish carbon deposit. If the color is different, it's time to purchase a new set.
Lack of fuel - everyone knows that it is better to drive on a full tank, but domestic motorists, due to the constant lack of money, the eternal crisis in the country and other similar reasons, prefer to drive on an almost empty tank and refuel only when absolutely necessary. At the same time, the accuracy of FLS on domestic cars is far from ideal and VAZ is no exception. Therefore, stopping at an angle, driving until the car stalls, topping up the tank on the road from a canister have a very negative effect on the fuel system, debris gets into it, and fuel is constantly supplied along with air.
“Left” service stations - the saying “the miser pays twice” is most relevant when it comes to cars. Garage services, repairs from friends and other attempts to save money often turn into the fact that your VAZ 2114 injector does not idle, there are engine problems, and repairs need to be carried out at an official service center.

Tachometer with high speed

How does this happen

If the car is running normally, all you need to do is start it and wait until the engine warms up to the optimal temperature. The tachometer indicator at this moment is at 2-2.5 thousand rpm, and then gradually drops to about 800 rpm as the power unit warms up.

But when there are problems, the idle speed jumps and changes sharply. The range of revolutions difference on the tachometer can be significant, up to 1.5 thousand revolutions. The car seems to live its own life. After some time, this phenomenon stops. But the next time the ignition is turned on, everything repeats.

The most dangerous thing in this case is inaction. Today we will talk about why the idle speed on the VAZ 2114 jumps, what are the reasons and what actions should be taken in this or that situation.

In fact, the reasons can be very different, so we will try to comprehensively study this issue.

Electronic control unit

It is not uncommon that the electronic brains of the VAZ 2114 car become the source of all problems associated with idle floating speed. If a sensor fails, this affects the ECU receiving incorrect information. Consequently, the engine does not operate at the parameters it needs.

Unfortunately, it will not be possible to independently diagnose and identify malfunctions of the electronic control unit. This requires appropriate experience, special equipment and tools. Therefore, this issue is resolved in a high-quality car service and nothing else.

If the injection VAZ 2114 stalls at idle, the problem lies in the sensors sending incorrect signals to the electronic control unit.

There are three sensors that may cause engine malfunction:

Idle air control or IAC;
Mass air flow sensor or mass air flow sensor;
EGR.

If the check shows that the sensors are working properly, then the causes of the breakdown should be looked for in the spark plugs and air filter. And don’t look for the problem only in the sensor itself. It is possible that the wiring connecting it to the ECU is damaged.

Let's look at problematic sensors that potentially cause floating speed in more detail.

If your VAZ 2114 stalls at idle, and it has an injection engine, look for the problem first of all at the IAC sensor. It is mounted on the throttle body, so you can find it near the throttle position sensor . The element we are looking for is secured with two screws.

To check the IAC you will need a multimeter:

Turn on the ignition;
Disconnect the wiring block from the sensor;
Using a multimeter, measure the resistance between the sensor contacts;
The normal value is about 40-80 ohms;
If the received data does not fall within the specified range, the regulator has failed;
The only correct solution to the problem is to replace the sensor.

Next in line will be the mass air flow sensor. It is not uncommon for this to cause floating rpm at idle.

Why the instrument panel of the VAZ 2114 does not work. A massive problem in our automobile industry.

The search for possible reasons why the VAZ 2114 instrument panel does not work periodically worries one or another owner of cars of this model. It’s clear that if you don’t see a single parameter on the dashboard, you can only drive, as they say, by touch. True, there are certain specialists who still managed to somehow crawl to the base without all the evidence, but somehow I don’t want to follow their example. And is it necessary to create additional troubles and the risk of accidents on the road? So the majority of those to whom this incident happened still get to work (or wherever they were going) by public transport in order to return to solving the problem in the evening on their own or with the help of a familiar auto repairman. Why does the VAZ 2114 instrument panel not work? Offhand, we can name several reasons. However, they may not exhaust the entire list, since the individual characteristics of the car may appear. We’ll try to talk about this and many other equally interesting things in our article today. The most common breakdown Before digging into the inside of the car, check how securely the ground wire leading to the front panel is fixed. A restless passenger in front often simply pulls him out of his place with his feet. To prevent the situation from repeating itself, after fastening it is worth insulating the wire from reach. The situation is a little more complicated. Its signs are very characteristic:

All indicators do not work: speedometer, tachometer, odometer, fuel level recorder, coolant temperature sensor;
The rest of the equipment - optics, radio, even the panel backlight - turn on normally and do not act up;
The ignition works properly, the car does not refuse to start;
Fuse F3 is almost 100% blown. It is located in the mounting block and will have to be changed. But first you need to find out why it was covered, otherwise the new one installed will suffer the same fate. In most cases, a short circuit is to blame for burnout. On well-used VAZ-2114, the fuse often blows after each wash. Instead of carrying a spare one, you need to figure out where moisture is getting into it.

If the fuse is intact, this is not a reason to immediately leave it alone. It would be a good idea to remove it and check the contacts: if the fuse is live, but the terminals are oxidized, the circuit will be interrupted, and the device will stop showing any signs of life. The next weak link: This is the ignition relay. It is located to the left of the steering column, fixed on a pin, so to speak, upside down. You need to remove it and try to make direct contact with the wires. With obvious signs of revival on the instrument panel, it immediately becomes clear that the time has come to change the relay. A difficult case Until now, situations have been sorted out when the torpedo still showed some signs of life. If non-working power windows, turn signals, and windshield wipers have been added to the devices, the issue is no longer a matter of relays and fuses. There may be 2 options:

The contacts on the ignition switch are burnt. In principle, after installing the relay (even on the VAZ-2109 version), this problem rarely arises. However, the possibility remains. The lock is removed, the contacts are checked and, if necessary, cleaned;
Mounting block. There may be burnt tracks on its board. The only thing that will save you is replacing it with a new one. However, the cost is by no means astronomical, and the installation is available as a standalone option.

Special situations General signs do not always indicate specific breakdowns. There may be exceptions. If individual devices refuse to work, it is quite possible that this is their personal problem. You'll have to parse the specific pointer. A gear could be cracked in it, which should be replaced. Also, why doesn’t the instrument panel of the VAZ 2114 work? If the fuel gauge and tachometer are capricious (either they function, or they don’t react at all), the contacts and the mounting block are normal - you need to do a small check. Reset is pressed and held, and the ignition is turned on at the same time. Raised arrows indicate the need for further searches. Lifeless - that microcracks have appeared in the shield itself. You will have to remove it and examine all soldering and traces under a magnifying glass. In principle, these are all the main options. If calling all the listed components and parts did not lead to the revival of the instrument panel, your case is individual, and you will have to determine the situation in the company of an experienced auto mechanic.

Starter malfunction

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If, when starting the engine, the starter makes one loud click and nothing else happens, in 100% of cases this is caused by problems in the module itself. One click indicates that charge is reaching the starter as the relay clicks. In this case, failure of the relay is excluded. The cause of the problem with the functioning of this module may be an unstable charge that reaches it. In this case, you should try to start the engine again, and repeat attempts at intervals of 20 seconds. Perhaps on the 2nd or 3rd try you will be able to start the car. If the engine still does not start, investigate the following potential causes of the problem:

the starter bendix has failed;
the retractor is broken;
the main winding of the starter is broken;
winding short circuit;
brushes and bushings are worn out.

In the latter case, it is only necessary to replace the failed components.

In any case, regardless of the reason why this problem occurred, the first step is to inspect and check all contacts visible from the outside. Often the starter stops performing its functions normally due to weak contact in one or another node. An unstable charge is also a fairly common cause. In this case, you just need to repeat the attempt to start the engine several times. Most likely, after two or three attempts you will be able to start the engine, and a similar situation will not repeat during subsequent starts.

Even if you eventually managed to start the engine after some attempt, you should not consider the problem solved. Otherwise, at some point the car will simply stop starting and you will have to look for alternative ways to start the engine. You should not solve the problem by replacing the starter.

A car has long ceased to be a luxury. It’s hard to imagine life without a car these days. Many people drive a car every day and for any need - to work, study, dacha, shopping, on vacation. And that's why it becomes very bad when the car won't start. Plans are ruined, meetings are cancelled, people lose money!

We will look at situations where the starter works, but the car still does not start, another time. And now - about what to do if the starter on a Priora does not turn.

First, let's understand how a starter works and what its structure is. An electric motor with a gear that meshes with the engine flywheel and turns it when started. All this is hidden in a housing on which the solenoid relay is mounted. It is designed to move the gear and supply power to the electric motor.

When you turn the ignition key, current is supplied to the relay. Using an electromagnet, it is retracted, using a special mechanism, it moves the gear and starts the engine by closing the contacts. When the key is released, power stops being supplied to the magnet of the solenoid relay, the relay operates in the other direction and the contacts open. So, we know what the principle of operation of the starter looks like in general terms, so now it will be easier for us to understand why the starter does not turn on the Priora.

If you hear clicking sounds when you turn the ignition key and the lights on the instrument panel go out, it may be the battery. It needs to be checked, recharged, topped up with electrolyte or replaced. Is the battery OK? Then the situation becomes more interesting. Check the wires that come from the battery. If they get hot, check their contact with the battery. Remove them from the terminals, clean them, lubricate them (sometimes oxidation occurs) and install them back.

Check the connection between the ground terminal and the body. If necessary, clean this connection. Check the connection between the plus terminal and the starter. Determine if power is supplied to the solenoid relay from the ignition switch. To do this, you need to disconnect the connector from the relay, and turn the ignition key “to start” and measure the voltage at the connector.

The Priora starter still won't turn? Then you will have to remove it from the car and check it.

The removal procedure looks like this: disconnect the battery terminals, unscrew and remove the air filter, unscrew and remove the positive wire from the starter. Then disconnect the connector from the relay, unscrew the starter mounting nuts and remove it. We are already much closer to solving the question of why the Priora’s starter does not turn. Now we take the wires for lighting (crocodiles) and connect them with the negative wire of the battery and the starter housing. We connect the positive one to the relay connector, after which the gear should be activated and ejected forward. If not, change the retractor.

You can hook the negative wire to the starter housing, and the positive wire to the lower terminal of the solenoid relay. The electric motor didn't work? The culprit is most likely the motor brushes.

Air filter

A similar situation as in the case of a gasoline filter element

Please note that the operation and repair of the vehicle must be carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's requirements. After all, you know that a mixture of gasoline and air is supplied to the combustion chamber

Consequently, if any component of this mixture does not enter the fuel rail, the engine will stall. Consider an example of how a motor operates when there is not enough air. Too much gets into the combustion chamber, causing the spark plugs to flood. At the same time, it feels as if the engine is choking. Among other things, some motorists who do not know about the principle of operation of an internal combustion engine can cover the inlet pipe with a rag to prevent water from getting into it. It's funny, but this happens.

Repair

For self-diagnosis and repair, the air filter must be removed. It is not so difficult to do this on injection-type cars. To do this, you need to open the hood of the Lada Samara and disconnect the DRV.

After this, all that remains is to find the screws (usually there are four of them) that secure the filter and remove them using a shaped screwdriver. After this, you can easily remove the filter. At the next stage, all that remains is to assess how dirty it is and, if necessary, replace this element.

The revolutions on the VAZ 2114 are floating

injection VAZ electronic unit

The idle speed of the VAZ 2114, as in other cars of the Samara family, is regulated using an idle speed sensor. Also, this sensor is responsible for stabilizing the engine at idle speed.

Before, we already talked about, but this was more general information, but within the framework of this article, we will consider this issue exclusively in relation to the VAZ 2114 car.

Where is the idle speed sensor located on the VAZ 2114?

How does the VAZ 2114 idle speed sensor work?

To fully understand how the VAZ 2114 engine operates at idle, you need to understand the principle of operation of the idle speed sensor, which, in fact, creates the conditions for this mode of engine operation.

It all starts when you turn the key in the ignition. At this moment, a rod extends from the idle speed sensor, which enters a special calibration hole, which is located on the throttle pipe. Next, the sensor counts a certain number of steps, after which it returns the valve to its original position. For example, we can cite the most popular manufacturer of these valves - Bosch

. She takes 50 steps on a warm engine.

Further, while the engine is idling, the speed is constantly adjusted due to the displacement of the rod in the calibration hole. In fact, regulation is carried out by changing the volume of supplied air.

It is important to note that the idle speed of the VAZ 2114 is regulated not only by the idle speed sensor. Other vehicle systems also help him.

So, for example, the amount of supplied air is controlled by the mass air flow sensor; it supplies the idle speed sensor with information about how much air the engine absorbs, and after that the idle speed sensor makes a decision to increase or decrease the amount of supplied air masses.

The crankshaft sensor helps the idle speed sensor monitor engine speed. From it, the idle speed sensor receives information about the frequency, which it compares with the set norm and, if necessary, adjusts the volume of supplied air.

What signs can be used to determine a malfunction of the idle speed sensor on a VAZ 2114?

Much to the regret of VAZ 2114 owners, the idle speed sensor is not equipped with an automatic fault diagnosis system, so neither the “check” nor the car’s on-board computer will indicate problems with adjusting the idle speed of the VAZ 2114.

Sign 1:

The car began to stall while idling.

Sign 2:

When the VAZ 2114 engine is running in idle mode, the engine speed fluctuates.

Sign 3:

during “cold” engine idling, no increased rotation speed is observed.

Sign 4:

When the VAZ 2114 engine is idling, the engine stalls when the car is removed from gear.

If you find one of the problems described above, then the first thing you will have to do is clean the idle speed sensor, inspect it and decide on further manipulations: repair or complete replacement.

It is worth noting!

Even in cases where it is possible to repair the idle speed sensor, it is still better to replace it - it is more reliable and durable.

What number of idle speeds is considered normal for a VAZ 2114?

Like any other car, the VAZ 2114 has its own regulated speed limit for the car’s engine at idle. In the case of the “fourteenth”, this norm is at the level of 800 rpm. Let's assume a deviation is considered to be 40 revolutions per minute, both positive and negative.

How much will a new idle speed sensor cost?

This article will talk about why the car stalls while driving. The reason for this phenomenon may be the most banal, but you will get a lot of troubles from such “behavior” of the car. In addition, the engine may stall at idle speed. This is not very pleasant; the engine seems to start, but after a while it stops working. It is possible that the engine does not want to start if its temperature is close to operating temperature. The operating temperature of the engine is about 90 degrees. And there can be many reasons, but we need to consider the main ones.

Gasoline engine does not idle

Let's start with the fact that this malfunction indicates two possible causes: failure of individual mechanisms, components or sensors, as well as severe contamination of certain elements. In both the first and second cases, it is necessary to carry out a diagnosis. The engine on injection and carburetor cars can most often stall at idle in the following cases:

the idle air regulator (IAC) has failed;
the throttle valve is dirty or malfunctioning;
the carburetor channels are clogged or the fuel jet XX is dirty;
the performance of injection nozzles is reduced or impaired;
the mesh of the electric/mechanical fuel pump is clogged, malfunctions of this unit have occurred;
there was a decrease in the throughput of the fuel filter;
the air filter is dirty, air leaks at the inlet;
failure of the mass air flow sensor, throttle position sensor, etc.;
clogging of the engine crankcase ventilation system;

If the car immediately stalls or the speed fluctuates noticeably after the starter is turned off, then you should pay attention to the throttle assembly. It is possible that the valve may become clogged or the mechanism may become jammed.

This malfunction, especially severe contamination, occurs as a result of prolonged driving on low-quality fuel, as well as untimely replacement of the air filter.

In this case, the throttle valve needs to be cleaned. To clean the throttle, use a regular “carbicleaner” (a product for cleaning carburetors), and you also need to blow out the valve using compressed air from the compressor. If these steps do not help, then you will need to evaluate the condition of the oil trap. This element is an integral part of the engine crankcase ventilation system. A dirty oil trap causes crankcase gases to “choke” the engine, idle speed floats and the internal combustion engine stalls.

Now let's look at a situation where the car starts normally, but then starts to stall (constantly or with a certain frequency). A similar situation often occurs on fuel-injected cars that have an electronic engine control system (ECM).

It is advisable for owners of cars that have been in use for a long time to have these sensors in stock, as well as a multimeter for self-diagnosis. This is especially necessary if the car is often used for long trips along the highway. Note that most of these sensors have an acceptable cost.

Another important point is that the car may start to stall at idle after flashing the ECU. Unprofessional correction of the factory firmware, flashing or chip tuning of the electronic engine control unit can lead to failures. Although the engine after such actions demonstrates better performance under load, at high speeds, etc., in parallel, the unit is not able to operate normally at 750-800 rpm. In this case, the installed firmware should be adjusted to achieve stable operation of the internal combustion engine in all modes.

Now a few words about the carburetor. The engine often stalls on such engines precisely because of contamination of the jets and prolonged lack of proper carburetor adjustment. The fact is that even small particles of debris in the fuel can disrupt the operation of carburetor injection. Dirt can be contained either in low-grade gasoline or enter the system from the gas tank, in which deposits gradually accumulate.

This product is a solvent-cleaner in an aerosol can. As for the mechanical fuel pump of carburetor engines, this type of pump has a filter mesh. This element can also become clogged, reducing pump performance. The membrane of a mechanical fuel pump can also fail. In parallel with wear, membrane particles clog the channels in the carburetor.

With an injection system on an injector, the situation is more complicated. If replacing the ECM sensors does not help, then you should start checking the intake manifold for excess air leaking into the intake, and also eliminate air in the fuel system. Then you need to move on to checking the injection nozzles, measure the pressure in the fuel rail, inspect the vacuum hoses, etc.

The vacuum brake booster will require special attention. We also add that regardless of the type of injection (engines with an injector or carburetor), it is necessary to check the ignition, spark plugs, high-voltage wires, distributor coil and other elements of the system

Fuel pump

If then, of course, the car stalls. The carburetor will work perfectly, but no one gives it gas. On fuel-injected cars, the fuel pump is located under the rear seat. On carburetor engines - near the camshaft (since it is driven from it). If it stops working, the engine may idle normally, but when the speed increases, it will definitely stall. However, if the gasoline pump is completely worn out, the engine will not start at all. To get rid of this malfunction, it is necessary to either repair the pump or replace it completely, which is the most effective. As for carburetor engines, the pump diaphragm drive rod can wear out greatly.

Other faults

The injector makes it quite easy to determine the cause of the malfunction. But repairs are much more difficult than on cars equipped with a carburetor engine. VAZ 2114 is equipped with engines of various powers. Easier maintenance with 8 valves. If the car takes a long time to start and the exclamation mark is on, then the reason may lie in the following:

incorrect operation of injectors;
poor quality fuel;
low pressure in the ramp.

Often, over a long period of use, the injectors simply become clogged. As a result, they require cleaning. It is difficult to cope with such a task on your own. The solution may be to contact a specialized service. Cleaning is usually performed using ultrasound. Another option is low quality fuel mixture. If the car begins to stall or loses power immediately after refueling, then the problem lies precisely in gasoline.

Lack of sufficient pressure in the ramp is another common reason. It can be measured using a special pressure gauge. Normal pressure is 2-2.5 atm. If it is lower, then the engine simply will not start. If you cannot independently determine the reason for the inability to start the engine, you should contact a service center.

The VAZ 2114 car is easy to repair and maintain. You just need to monitor the quality of the fuel being poured, and also change consumables in a timely manner.

What are the causes of car malfunctions?

If such a problem begins to appear in the car that it stalls as soon as it starts, it means it’s time to take the car in for a technical inspection. You will like several real circumstances, and before identifying the real one, you will have to go through almost half of your own car

Where you should pay attention first, let’s look further

The car alarm system is not working properly. Modern alarm systems that are connected to the central control unit have a huge number of additional gadgets, which come in variations and have a bad effect on starting the engine. Sometimes even electronics can malfunction and malfunction. The car's software does not identify the start and stops the supply of electricity to the injectors, which, accordingly, deprives the spark (no ignition).
The idle speed control is inoperative. You will prefer two reasons for its incapacity - either it is very clogged, or it is not working, and it will need to be changed. Bad fuel becomes a prerequisite for blockage and valve failure. Blockages clog the channels through which car fluids, together with oxygen, must flow to the parts, this disrupts the ignition process.

The car started when cold and immediately

went deaf. I removed the chip from the MAF sensor and the car started. As you get tired of it.

One of the reasons why the car won't start

, i.e.
you start the car and it immediately stalls
. You are also going strong.

To fix this problem, you will need the help of experienced specialists who will carry out ultrasonic cleaning.

Poor quality lubricants may also be the cause. Oil can remain on the cylinder walls and interfere with the normal stroke of the piston. To eliminate this problem, you need to change the oil after thoroughly flushing the engine. You should not disconnect the mass for a long time in modern cars. The electrical unit, which is responsible for controlling the engine, can delete all data due to a lack of power. The charging and starting device is not recommended for frequent use, as it produces too strong current fluctuations, which sometimes leads to the unit burning out.

Low quality fuel. This problem leads to engine detonation. The integrity of the heat pipes is compromised, and this leads to air leaks and dilution of the combustible mixture.
The gas exhaust system is clogged. Failure to remove excess gases will block the engine. This problem can only be fixed at a service station.
The fuel or air filter is clogged. If the filters are not kept clean, the system may also fail. It is necessary to monitor the filter parts and periodically clean or change them.
The oxygen sensor may fail and become one of the reasons that the car stalls. Correct operation of the sensor depends on the composition of the combustible mixture. If the composition is incorrect, the device will block further operation of the machine.

What do drivers recommend?

Drivers share their experiences with each other, so you should also listen to the recommendations of car enthusiasts.

All drivers claim that it is prohibited to disconnect the terminals from the battery, especially from the injectors. A low charge level has a bad effect on starting the engine. The fuel pump is unstable. The device will not have the necessary pressure for uninterrupted operation of the system, so the fuel supply will be intermittent. In addition to the basic rules for operating a car, while driving and repairing their car, each driver gains additional knowledge and experience. Such nuances are learned as a result of mistakes made by the owner of the vehicle.

From the above, it becomes clear that there are many reasons why a car may not start. Determine the breakdown immediately

, not even an experienced car mechanic can do. Therefore, if you feel that you cannot cope on your own, feel free to contact a service station. If you still decide to figure it out on your own, then inspect every centimeter of your car. Step by step you will discover the true source of the problem.

conclusions

Maintenance, which should be carried out according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, will avoid many problems. The only question is where to go, at the “Kulibins”, or at specialized service stations equipped with the necessary equipment and equipment. The choice is up to the vehicle owner. The sooner the prerequisites for the failure of a particular part are identified, the less financial losses there will be in the future . It should be remembered that timely maintenance increases the safe operation of the vehicle.

Many drivers are faced with a problem when the VAZ-2114 starts and immediately stalls; the reason can be hidden in any little thing. This is a common situation that should not cause the driver to panic. This happens often, and it does not depend on how long your car has been in use. There can be many reasons for this, so you should be prepared for the fact that it will take some time. Sometimes the driver is not able to independently figure out the cause of such a failure, so it makes sense to contact experienced specialists at a car service center. Sometimes the problem lies in the type of engine or in late technical inspection. Typically, such problems arise abruptly and unexpectedly, and therefore can cause trouble for the driver.

The engine starts and immediately stalls. Familiar and quite solvable.

What to do if the engine starts and immediately stalls? This is the kind of common breakdown we will look at in this section today. This can happen to any driver, regardless of the age of the car. There can be many reasons; it will take some time to find the source of the breakdown. Sometimes your strength will not be enough; you will need to contact qualified specialists from a car service center. Much depends on the type of engine and the timeliness of technical inspection. As a rule, such breakdowns happen unexpectedly and without prior notice. Therefore, many drivers begin to get lost and panic. Our article recommendation is intended primarily to help quickly find the source and localize it. Diseases proven over the years The engine starts and immediately stalls, so check the points listed below:

The alarm is not working correctly. Modern anti-theft devices are stuffed with all sorts of things that connect to the central electronic control unit and control the process of identifying and starting the engine. As a matter of fact, electronics, like humans, sometimes fail. The program recognizes this launch by a third party and cuts off the current supply to the injector system, which means there is no spark and no ignition. Read more in the article “What to do if the alarm blocks the engine from starting”;
Idle air valve malfunction. There are two options: either it is clogged with dirt or does not work at all. Poor quality fuel or with the addition of various impurities leaves carbon deposits on the throttle valve after some time, which leads to its failure. The diameter of the channels narrows somewhat, which means that the mixture and oxygen do not enter in full, and the ignition process is disrupted. Surgical intervention by qualified car service workers and ultrasonic cleaning or “baths” (as they are also called) are required;
The quality of the lubricating fluid does not meet the required standards or has greatly lost its properties. If there are discrepancies, the oil remains on the cylinder walls, forming a viscous film that creates obstacles to the piston stroke. This is especially common during the first start after a night in frosty weather. It is necessary to rinse the engine with flushing oil and fill in a new one that meets all standards and temperature conditions;
Unstable operation of the fuel pump. The device is not capable of creating the necessary pressure in the system on a constant basis, and accordingly the fuel supply cycle and its ignition are disrupted;
Fuel is of poor quality, which leads to engine detonation;
Violation of the integrity of the fuel lines, which leads to air leaks and the combustible mixture becomes lean;
The gas outlet capacity is impaired. In modern cars this is called the EGR sensor. Failure of which leads to blocking of the engine and its further operation. Only with the help of car services can you fix the breakdown; your own strength will not be enough;
Fuel filter clogged. Untimely replacement and technical maintenance lead to the fact that the most vulnerable places fail. Replace the filter elements with new ones and the damage should be eliminated;
The air filter is clogged. Depending on geographic operating conditions, the filter element may become clogged prematurely, creating obstacles to starting the engine. Routine replacement required;
Instability in the operation of the oxygen sensor. If the composition of the combustible mixture is incorrect, the device records this and transmits the data to the “brain”, which blocks further operation of the power unit.

Drivers' recommendations are strictly prohibited from disconnecting the terminals from the battery, especially for injectors, they catastrophically do not like this. A weak battery charge can negatively affect starting. Do not disconnect the mass for a long time, since in modern cars the electronic engine control unit can erase all data due to the lack of external power. It is not advisable to use the charger-starter very often, since it creates very large amplitudes of current, which often leads to the control unit burning out. In this case, get ready for a comprehensive replacement of the ECU exclusively by qualified car service workers. As you can see, there can really be many reasons why the engine starts and immediately stalls. Even the best master cannot immediately determine the source. You need to remain calm and not panic. If you feel that you can’t handle it yourself, call for help; if so, then gradually test the nodes step by step and find the source of infection. Good luck driving.

Diesel engine does not idle

The most likely malfunction in the case of a diesel power unit is a problem with the injection pump. There are several options here. For example, due to an old or low-quality fuel filter, small particles from its structure have entered the system. Dirt can get inside along with low-quality fuel. Also, in the fuel injection pump, air leaks sometimes occur and the plunger pair may even fail.

Owners of diesel engines are also faced with the need to clean the mesh in the fuel tank, since when it becomes clogged with dirt, the car begins to stall when half a tank of diesel remains. Other reasons include clogged injectors, air leaks from the brake vacuum pump, and incorrectly working glow plugs. At the same time, it is better not to tinker with a diesel engine in the garage for a long time, since checking it requires serious equipment and experience.

Fuel quality

Always watch what kind of gasoline you fill your car with. In most cases, all of the above symptoms appear as soon as you fill the tank with fuel. Of course, the engine may stall after some time. Therefore, it will be difficult to immediately determine the breakdown

It is also worth paying attention: the reason that the engine begins to stall or stall should always be sought in the gasoline itself. To cure this “disease”, you will need to completely drain the gasoline from the tank and also replace the fuel filter

Unfortunately, you don’t always buy high-quality fuel at gas stations. Therefore, it is worth choosing one brand of manufacturer that sells the highest quality gasoline. Of course, there are times when the car stalls while driving (the reason for this does not lie in gasoline). Please note that an excessively low price is the first sign that gasoline is of dubious origin. And pouring it into the tank is equivalent to driving a car at full speed into a pole.

Why is this happening?

This problem often occurs in poorly maintained cars: a busy work schedule, high load on the car, low-quality fuel and even laziness of the car enthusiast ultimately lead to problems with the car’s operation.

The engine is not only the main part of the car, but also the most sensitive. At the same time, when one or more of the above circumstances affect the operation of your car and your VAZ 2114 stalls at idle, it’s too late to deal with the possibility of preventing a breakdown.

Therefore, it is worth talking about the main reasons for this behavior of the car:

The idle speed sensor is a common missing idle problem that most motorists will recognize at first glance. If your car does not, but when you press the gas pedal, ignition occurs without problems or you observe floating speed, then the idle speed regulator is to blame. There is only one solution to this problem - replacing the part; it will not be possible to adjust it, because if both of the listed symptoms are observed, the problem is 100% not in the adjustment, but in the serviceability of the part.

IMPORTANT! Cleaning the throttle valve will not take much time; the main thing is to maintain the serviceability of the part, under no circumstances touch the screws located on the side and inside the part.